08.30.09
Posted in American, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Tribeca, rated 8 to 8.5 at 23:29 by Dominique
134 Reade & Greenwich/Hudson Sts., 212-941-9401
great for: large parties, dates
I was glad the Music Exec picked this restaurant (impressively, without any input from me) – he managed to choose a newish place I’d never been to that was good. Pretty much the trifecta for me as a reviewer.
On his suggestion, I got the “baked potato” app which is really crème fraîche agnolotti in potato brown butter with pancetta and truffle essence. It is strong-tasting but I really enjoyed it. The agnolotti are like stretched-out, slender ravioli with lovely pancetta inside. There was quite a lot of olive oil. His wild kampachi tartare with avocado, American caviar and potato chips was citrusy and good.
I loved my bacon-wrapped pork chop over mashed potatoes with peas and pickled onions. It seemed to be breading instead of bacon, but I have no quibble with the large chop or how juicy and tender it was. I kind of wanted to pick up the bone at the end, it was so delicious. We also liked his marinated flatiron steak with potato sticks, charred green garlic and red wine peppercorn sauce. All the portions here seem to be very generous.
Pleasant service, cozy farmhouse feel with plenty of tables, terrific food… you pretty much can’t go wrong here. I only wish it were a little closer to me.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $175 (Pellegrino, 3 glasses of wine)
Noise level: not loud, pretty spacious with a lot of wood
Chance of walking in: might be ok.
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Posted in Alphabet City, East Village, Italian, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 00:04 by Dominique
234 E.4th St. & Ave. B, 212-253-2038
Great for: frittura di mare, fish, fine dining in Alphabet City
My dear friend S and I did a shoot with her friend L one day at China 1 and afterward he took us out to dinner. How lucky that this place was right around the corner. It’s pretty new, and impressive already.
We shared the terrific frittura di mare to start. It’s a big dish of lightly breaded and fried calamari, prawn, shrimp and scallops with lemon and oregano aïoli. The sauce is creamy and a great contrast to the deliciously light seafood.
S’s seared veal and tuna steak with tomato sauce, mousse, anchovies, capers and olive oil looked like confusing, albeit lovely, art, and tasted very good. I really enjoyed my red mullet filet in a tomato confit over grilled potatoes and roasted garlic with shrimp soup. All the little parts of the dish were great. I didn’t find any shrimp in the soup, which was more like tomato bisque, and yummy anyway. The mullet came in small filet pairs tied to each other with long scallions. There was too much garlic – not in the flavoring, actual cloves – but the whole thing was fun to eat. L thought his seared cod fish over prosciutto broth with a spinach and potato croquette was great too.
We rounded out the meal with a fantastic lemon gelato. This place has it all; terrific food, nice waiters, and a surprisingly spacious room for the location. There’s also lots of exposed brick and I like the louvered front windows. They’re open early for dinner – go now!
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $155 for 3
Noise level: I imagine it acquires a convivial hum when there are other people dining.
Chance of walking in: probably the only thing not great about it.
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Posted in Financial District, Italian, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 6 to 6.5 at 00:00 by Dominique
225 Front St. & Beekman/Peck Slip, 212-227-8890
Great for: hiding in a secret garden, post-shopping food, Italian groceries
Software Guy was finally back in town and we decided to meet up around South Street Seaport and wander around. New York is such a great town to do that. You’re certain to stumble upon some hidden gem if you look hard enough. Or walk long enough. The restaurant is concealed by an Italian grocery store; once you get through that you find an enclosed courtyard that’s actually the restaurant. You can sit outside, if you like, but that’s nowhere near as cool.
We mainly got the specials. The speck was great and there was a lot of it. There’s just something about cured salty meat I really like. Probably the fact that it’s meat. My app of medium-size shrimp with fava beans had lots of beans and the shrimp could have been cooked a tad less, but it was quite nice.
We liked SG’s cavatelli with rabbit ragú. The pasta was very al dente. My veal scaloppine in green pepper sauce with capers, carrots, zucchini, onions and potatoes was a little disappointing in comparison. Though they were generous with the meat – four wide slices – one slice was unpleasantly stringy and the others were only halfway better. I enjoyed the sauce and vegetables though.
I think perhaps meat is not their specialty here, so if I’m in the area again I’ll probably stick with a pasta and/or seafood. The service is slow, but that’s nice if you’re having a pleasant conversation. And the location is uniquely lovely.
Rating: 6.5 / 10
Our cost: $70 (2 glasses of wine)
Noise level: quiet in the secret garden
Chance of walking in: good.
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08.29.09
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 23:50 by Dominique
152 W.49th St. & 7th Ave., 212-764-8549
Great for: pre-theatre dining, izakaya food, sharing with a small group
Snowboarding Guy had an irresistible proposition one day – dinner and In the Heights (fantastic, I definitely recommend it). It was perfect timing to get a table, as they get jammed really quickly but around 6pm isn’t too bad. The line starts around 6:15, S said. I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Japan yet, so I can’t tell you if this is a proper, authentic izakaya. I can, however, assure you that if the proper ones are anything like this they must be absolutely delightful. Basically, izakayas serve a lot of small dishes along with sakes and beers, and are traditionally for businessmen to unwind after work.
We started with some lovely yellowtail sashimi and went a little crazy with the skewers. I wasn’t feeling very adventurous so we just got chicken, duck, pork belly, asparagus wrapped in bacon, shrimp and one other. They were all quite good. I did not enjoy trying to de-shell the giant shrimp on its stick though. I fell in love with the mentai pasta, which has cod roe and creamy sauce mixed on top; so much so that I think I will try to make it at home. It sounds odd but is really good. The saltiness and texture of the roe are a great contrast to the smooth creaminess.
I also surprised myself liking the soup with salmon and pickled stuff over rice. So simple, yet so delicious. It wasn’t that big, though, so we ordered a tempura shrimp skewer. This was much better than the regular shrimp skewer, mainly because I didn’t have to deal with a shell and it had spicy mayo. We also got delicious gyoza filled with Berkshire pork (is there anything Berkshire pork doesn’t augment?) and perfectly crispy, juicy kara age. I think Japanese-style might be my favorite kind of fried chicken.Obviously I love Southern, and the Korean marriage of crisp and saucy, but the Japanese have figured out how to pack a lot of crunch and flavor into very little breading and oil. At least it seems to have not much oil.
The waiters are very busy, but do their best. They don’t rush you either, which is especially nice considering how popular the place is. They have many rare foods, like natto, and interesting little cocktails – SG got some kind of fruit + beer mixture that was actually quite good – plus there are some private booths too. I cannot tolerate waiting, so I will always try to go around 6, but it’s lively any time and I certainly want to come back.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $85 (one fruit beer)
Noise level: kind of loud
Chance of walking in: not good. The line starts around 6:15pm.
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Posted in Italian, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, SoHo, rated 7 to 7.5 at 23:23 by Dominique
11 Bleecker & Elizabeth Sts., 212-529-5133
Great for: pizza, vegetarians, organic food
My friend F suggested lunch here, and I thought I recognized the address. As I walked up I was shocked to find that it was the same restaurant I’d disliked five years ago. It didn’t help that my date was frightfully boring and made me pay my half (on a first date!), but F told me not to worry, the pizza was really good. Though I don’t usually eat that, I was game for some carbs.
We shared the special fettuccine with shrimp, cherry tomatoes, asparagus and crushed red pepper. It needed more pepper and the shrimp were slightly overcooked, but it was generally nice. The pizza was as good as promised; eight slices of thin crust covered with tomatoes and cheese. I actually could have done with a little more cheese. All of this was just the right amount for the two of us to share.
I came away with a favorably revised opinion. It’s decent, especially for its somewhat out-of-the-way location, with pretty décor, an extensive wine list and a back garden. Our waitress was a little slow but I think maybe that’s because she was setting up for dinner at the same time. I think I might actually come back next time I want a simple pizza.
Rating: 7 / 10
Our cost: $40
Noise level: music at a good level
Chance of walking in: pretty good.
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08.26.09
Posted in New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Spanish, West Village, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 01:03 by Dominique
64 W.10th St. & 6th/5th Ave., 212-505-7777
Great for: tapas, sangria, getting crazy with a large group of friends, hanging out at the bar, impressing out-of-towners, dates
Motorcycle Guy and I agreed on this place for our date, which turned out to be a really good decision because although I’d been here a while back, I hadn’t reviewed it, and it turned out to still be yummy enough that I actually want to write about it. (Sometimes I just can’t be bothered if a place is mediocre and obscure. And my palate has developed to the point where often what was once good is now disappointingly eh.)
The warm salad of artichokes and haricots verts with crème fraîche truffle dressing was a nice start. The lamb meatballs in spiced butternut squash foam, toasted sesame seeds and lebne (a dense yogurt cheese) were also lovely. The foam could have been better, but then I don’t like any form of squash.
The two best dishes – I really couldn’t pick between them – were the Brussels sprouts and scallops. The sprouts come with Granny Smith apples, crème fraîche and pistachios, which sounds strange, but that bit of sweetness sets off the rest of the flavors. I LOVED it. I also loved the three big butterflied, roasted scallops in artichoke purée and yuzu mayonnaise with salmon caviar. Tender, juicy and terrific, I only wished there were more (and an even number).
The yogurt-marinated lamb skewers with okra and eggplant in green leek sauce were a setback in an overall pleasant meal. I hated the vegetables, which were an unpleasant surprise, and the lamb was fine but a bit too sweet. Fortunately, the whole rack of Danish ribs roasted with kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) and coriander made up for that. Though they could have been moister, they were very satisfying.
We rounded out the meal with an absolutely scrumptious warm chocolate cake topped with coconut sorbet, passionfruit emulsion and chocolate rum sauce. It literally melted in our mouths. I found myself actually eating more than a few bites of it, despite not usually being a huge dessert fan.
It was fun sitting in the semi-secret back room that you can only reach through the kitchen. A bit sexier than the rest of the place, which is nice but loud and packed. The décor is a little cluttered, though still good for dates. Our waitress was attentive and helpful. I’m so glad the food hasn’t stopped being great. And if you’re there with a bunch of people, get the “whole shebang” – everything on the menu for $400. Did that once, it’s so worth it. Plus the sangria is killer.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $110 (1 drink)
Noise level: music at a good level, loud people, quiet back room
Chance of walking in: they’re very popular, so definitely call ahead.
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08.25.09
Posted in Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Northern European, rated 6 to 6.5 at 04:11 by Dominique
49 Clinton & Stanton/Rivington Sts., 212-614-3234
Great for: good solid English food, a taste of home for Brit expats, late night food
I was trying very hard to qualify for the World Series of Poker through Pokerstars freerolls (obviously, I did not make it this year) but I couldn’t miss my friend L’s birthday either. I made it through round 1 quickly and was puzzled to find myself sitting alone at a table with all the chips for round 2, but figured I’d lucked into a free pass to the final round. It was also way past time to leave for dinner so I jumped into a cab. This is why I forgot my BlackBerry and had to take notes with my camera.
We were all delighted to see the eminently reasonable $28 3-course prix fixe menu including one glass of prosecco or rosé. I didn’t actually love anything on it or want dessert, so I ordered from the regular menu, but it definitely helped to keep costs down. Those Brits do love their vino! (I was staying sober until I won the tournament.)
I tried most of the savory dishes on the prix fixe menu, since there were about 16 of us and we ended up getting everything.
The chicken from this walnut chicken salad with celery leaves, Granny Smith apples and mixed lettuce was a bit bland. The greens are nice, though I’d prefer that it have no fruit. The new season asparagus with poached egg and candied lemon as well as the rocket salad with manchego, pear and pine nuts looked good and reportedly tasted good as well.
I really liked the rich country-style pâté with red onion marmalade and toasted bread. There was a lot of bread and the onions were a little too sweet though.
I found my main course of toad in the hole pretty good. The sausage was a bit bland and the onions were way too sweet as in the marmalade, but I liked the bready stuff and mashed potatoes a lot. I think the English Ex’s mother made it slightly better.
The butternut pumpkin risotto with basil pistou (French pesto) and parmesan would have been yummy if I liked any form of pumpkin.
Unfortunately I didn’t get to try any of the well-received burger. Looks nice, doesn’t it?
As did the pan-fried mackerel with green olives, celery and raisin.
The prosecco, rosé, Champagne and wines are reasonably priced and quite good. They were working on their late-night liquor license (probably have it by now) and are open ’til about 2am on weekends. The owner himself often helps wait tables and everyone is very nice.
It’s an unpretentious pub with decent food and a fun atmosphere. We went soon after they opened, so I expect they have worked out some of the kinks. It’s a lovely place to start the night and linger. As for me, I had to dash the minute I finished my entrée but I certainly had ample wine to drown my sorrows when I came back later.
[When I got home an hour later the tournament said I'd been sitting out too long. I tried to salvage the situation but they didn't know why I'd been alone in the first place so I was probably the victim of a computer glitch. Terribly disappointing, that and the many other times I battled impossible odds to win a round, only to be eliminated eventually. Once I had one small blind left against three other people - I trounced them all in thirty minutes. Didn't carry over to the next round.]
Rating: 6.5 / 10
My cost: $30 (no drinks)
Noise level: quite loud
Chance of walking in: it might get pretty slammed as people find out about it.
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08.23.09
Posted in American, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, eclectic, rated 9 to 10 at 01:22 by Dominique
120 Essex St. Stall 16 & Delancey (enter from door on corner, next to cheese shop), 212-924-5160
Great for: quirky but delicious food, interesting conversation, après-shopping eats
I was terrified of eating here, as I’ve heard about Kenny’s legendary temper and read firsthand accounts of people being cursed or chucked out. But as a fledgling restaurant critic it’s my duty to go and review food… so I plucked up my courage and ventured in one sunny day. I’m not sure if I was wearing my sling (from the shoulder-shattering incident) – in fact, I don’t think I was – but Kenny and his son were lovely to me. I even committed the idiotic faux pas of asking for suggestions from the bewilderingly enormous menu in 10-point font on double-sided legal paper and they scolded “WHAT?!” but laughed and said cute girls are allowed to ask questions. I don’t know why I forgot you’re not supposed to. I was so nervous I even dropped my phone. Anyway, they quickly put me at ease and we chatted away for the next hour.
I got way too much food. The sliders with cheese and pickles would have been enough by themselves, but then I wouldn’t have experienced the ecstasy that is the fried potato salad. You know when meat is marinated and juicy and tender and you just want to keep on biting into it? That’s how the burgers were, with a great contrast in the pickles. I got mozzarella with the fried potato salad instead of the regular blue cheese and it was just wonderful. The potato chunks were small enough that I didn’t tire of eating them, and crispy and flavorful to boot. I ate sooo much.
I only wish I could eat there more often! It’s a bit expensive, but definitely worth the money. All the dishes are quite large, as well. Most sandwiches are about $15 and the skillets are over $20. It’s not a very big place (though I like how it feels like a homey kitchen), they stop accepting new orders around 2, and are only open weekdays and Saturdays, so it takes some determination to get there unless you’re technically jobless like me. Plus, if you act fake or snobby or are ridiculously picky about food (vegans seem to be especially reviled) or annoy Kenny in some way, he’ll probably refuse to serve you. So be real. And nice-looking apparently helps.
Rating: 9 / 10
Cost: $20 (this is not a cheapie lunch place)
Noise level: however loud Kenny has to yell to the kitchen
Chance of walking in: might be ok after the lunch rush – they don’t do dinner any more.
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08.05.09
Posted in Asian, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Southeast Asian, rated 6 to 6.5 at 02:10 by Dominique
85 Orchard & Broome/Grand Sts., 212-226-3700
Great for: upscale pho without weird cuts of meat, sandwich takeout (you can’t have the pho to go)
[Sorry for the hiatus. Poker has been taking up most of my time when I'm actually on the computer, plus I've been taking classes and I'm in a soon-upcoming play. But in an effort at discipline, I've banned myself from online poker until I'm caught up here. Also I'm catching fuck-all for cards so this should save me some money and grief. At least I'm still winning in live games. And cooking is going well.]
I was sad Elyssa Dido closed, but this place is pretty good too. For some reason, the night before I had a craving for pho, but they aren’t open on Mondays. Fortunately for my readers I was able to wait until the next night.
I got the last dish of goi cuon, a salad roll with shrimp, greens, herbs and peanut sauce. It was light and pretty good, though the shrimp were a bit dry. I liked the sauce, which is surprising because I usually hate peanut anything. My pho bo with cinnamon cloves, star anise, brisket, eye round and optional meatballs was decent. The thin-sliced meat was very nice. I was happy that it was all meat I could eat – I know, I know, I’m a bad Chinese girl for hating tendon and other offal-type things, but it’s just so yucky to me. I found the broth tasty and the noodles a little too thin.
It’s a really narrow space, so you’re pretty much guaranteed a wait at peak hours. It’s also hot, and expensive for what it is (especially considering dirt-cheap fantastic Vietnamese places are a few blocks away in Chinatown), so even though it’s around the corner from me, I doubt I’ll become a regular.
Rating: 6.5 / 10
Cost: $20
Noise level: it’s a small space, so depends on the people
Chance of walking in: probably not good for now, since it’s new.
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