12.10.09
Review of Aldea, Monday September 2009
31 W.17th St. & 5th/6th Aves., 212-675-7223
Great for: dates, trying something new (and delicious)
I was supposed to go out with P ages ago but I broke my shoulder, and he was busy, then I was busy, and it just ended up happening six months later. I gave him a couple choices and Aldea emerged the winner, in more ways than one.
His appetizer of shrimp alhinho could have been cooked less, but it was nice, with smoky sauce and a generous four shrimp. Despite the presence of mushrooms I was delighted with the peas and bacon. And not just because I love bacon; the peas were tasty and firm, and all the flavors went together very well.
His arroz con pato was terrific. We loved the cracklings and chorizo, though not so much the apricot purée, and the duck was totally addictive. I would be so happy if the little Chinese restaurants near me would make fried rice this way! My Niman Ranch pork loin over corn and bacon with potato cubes was also great. There was lots of pork and something pickled that sharpened the taste of everything else. I liked how the meat was quite tender. It could maybe have come off the fire a tad earlier but overall it was really impressive. For once, I found the entrées better than the apps. It is usually the other way around.
To finish we got the strawberry tasting. I loved the mousse-like semifreddo and the sorbet. The black pepper biscuit was funny but actually quite nice with the strawberries & cream. I was very glad we ordered it.
The service tends toward the crazy attentive; they told us everything in every dish as it was set it down. Our waiter was very nice, patient and friendly while also leaving us alone enough. Plus the restaurant is decorated in the most tasteful blue and silver – it looks so carefully designed I was afraid to knock into things. If this is what Portuguese cuisine is like, I can’t wait to go to Lisbon. (Although my understanding is that this is more fusion than traditionally Portuguese.)
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $110
Noise level: low, especially upstairs, and the music is a good volume
Chance of walking in: probably not high. It’s delicious.
