05.17.08

Review of Bar Stuzzichini, Saturday April 2008

Posted in Flatiron, Italian, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 19:29 by Dominique

928 Broadway & 22nd St., 212-780-5100
Great for: sharing lots of fantastic little plates, feeling like you’re outside NYC without leaving

Poor Boyfriend was sick, and I’d spent all day blogging and taking care of him, so we were a little stir-crazy.  When B said he wanted Italian and small plates, Stuzzichini immediately leapt to mind.  I wasn’t expecting a whole lot, since I think this every-cuisine-in-tapas-form craze is just that, a craze, but I was very pleasantly surprised.

We started with the misti (mixed) choice of 5 appetizers.  The mozzarella di bufala was creamy and at the same time light and wonderful.  The polpette (meatballs) were crispy outside and juicy no-filler goodness inside.  I think they were even better than the polpette at Bellavitae.  The baccalà fritti (fried salt cod) tasted like proper fish and chips, according to my Englishman - moist and tender with very crisp salty batter.  The gamberetti (grilled prawns) were two succulent plump shrimps in spicy oil begging to be eaten.  The soppressata was spicy slivers of soft deliciousness.  The only objection I can raise is that each dish came in very small portions.

I ordered the gnocchi all’amatriciana with guanciale, tomatoes and onions for my main course. It was spicy and very salty with crisp cooked onions.  The gnocchi were tiny, fluffy and cooked evenly the whole way through.  I was leaning toward the lemon crispy chicken instead, but our waitress said this was better.  I’m really glad I listened to her.  B’s orecchiette with cauliflower & breadcrumbs was weirdly delicious.  It was the best cauliflower either of us have had without cheese, which is lucky because the dish is a cauliflower extravaganza.  The “little ears” are small and it feels like a very healthy dish.

For dessert we had mucca marrone (brown cow).   It’s an ice cream float on San Pellegrino Chinotto, a horrible tasting soda that I do not recommend adding to the glass.  Though it was fun sucking the ice cream through a big straw, especially the fudge layer.  We also enjoyed a glass each of Turliner (I think that’s how the name sounded), which was a blend of Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot blanc.

Our waitress was great.  She patiently waited for us to make up our minds about everything and was friendly and attentive.  She steered us well with all our questions, and not to the most expensive items.  The place itself is decorated nicely too.  It’s a lovely, spacious restaurant that has a very out-of-town feel – it seemed like we were in Chicago.  I liked the lightbulb chandeliers and the pictures of graffiti.  The restaurant was oddly unbusy for how good it is, though I think we were a bit early.  I hope I can go back soon.

Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $115 (2 glasses of wine)
Noise level: silly tourists weren’t too loud
Chance of walking in: medium.

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