01.03.10

Review of Satsko, Sunday October 2009

Posted in Asian, Japanese, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 21:53 by Dominique

245 Eldridge St. & Houston/Stanton Sts., 212-358-7773
Great for: a quiet meal in that random Milk & Honey part of the LES, sushi

It was a sushi kind of Sunday, and after some Blackberry consultation, the New Boyfriend and I settled on this place. Our starter of furikake-dusted calamari with nori, sesame seeds and lime aïoli was pretty good, but not that impressive. The calamari could have been less rubbery and the aïoli was a bit distracting; it needed more spice and less citrus.

I was happier with my sushi sashimi combo. The tuna, salmon and hamachi sushi were well executed, as were the good-size pieces of salmon, tuna, shrimp and yellowtail nigiri. The spicy tuna maki were small and nice. Our favorite thing of the meal was the creative and spicy yellowfin tuna roll with Thai basil.

In a word, the meal was nice. So was our service, mostly. Initially we were the only patrons, and asked them to switch the channel to poker. We sat facing the TV and discussing the action. Then two guys came in and unasked, the owner changed back to baseball. Which the guys, who weren’t even facing the TV, ignored. Poker might be a slightly odd request but I found the switching back quite rude. I’m not deducting points for that; it was just a weird footnote to an otherwise pleasant dinner.

Rating: 7 / 10
Our cost: $65 (1 app, 1 combo, 2 rolls)
Noise level: quiet, but it was empty
Chance of walking in: good.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

Review of Kuma Inn, Saturday October 2009

Posted in Asian, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Southeast Asian, rated 6 to 6.5, small plates at 21:48 by Dominique

113 Ludlow & Rivington/Delancey, 212-353-8866
Great for: sharing lots of small dishes, easily impressed out-of-towners

One of my favorite girlfriends organized a girls’ night one Saturday. I’d been here before so I wasn’t too excited about the food, but fortunately her presence makes up for quite a lot. The last time I was here the company was also better than the food, which is only middling anyway, so it is not the place to take a foodie. Unless they like everything sweet.

We had to wait a very long while for the people at our reserved table to clear out, for which inconvenience we were given free edamame with lemon butter and salt. It was really good. It sustained me through our first dish of pickled vegetables, which was kind of like being tasered with a pickle. In my mind, even when a dish is “pickled [something],” it ought to still have some balance. I shouldn’t be fighting to keep my eyes open.

Fortunately the scallops with bacon, kalamansi and sake were much better. They also were a little sour, but a nice size and overall pretty tasty. So was the pork tonkatsu with watercress salad and lime butter. I found the meat a tad dry and the sauce a little sweet, while the lime butter was nice. I did not, of course, eat the mushrooms with baby bamboo, though the bamboo was decent.

The langoustines special in panko with wasabi tobiko aïoli was the best dish we had. The aïoli is addictive – the shellfish was good too. I enjoyed the sautéed Chinese sausage with super-hot Thai chili-lime sauce, which offset well the sweetness of the meat. The tofu with Thai basil and wood ear mushrooms in spicy soy mirin was not good. Too sweet, and just blah all around. I didn’t care for the seared ahi tuna in Thai chili-miso vinaigrette either.

We finished things off with the dessert tasting. The Thai chili chocolate ice cream (for an avowedly Filipino restaurant, they really like those Thai spices) was fine, as were the black plum sorbet and fried plantains. The lemongrass panna cotta was the best.

The service partly makes up for the mediocrity of the food. They are very attentive, and it was nice of them to mitigate the annoyance of waiting 45 minutes with unsolicited edamame. On the other hand, we were shocked to be charged corkage for our two bottles of sake; we tried to empirically figure out if that’s standard, and couldn’t remember details of past byob dinners well enough to come to a consensus, but basically it was surprising to be charged for twist-open bottles.

I can’t tell you why this place gets so much hype. Both visits I was in parties of 4 that ordered a good cross-section of the menu, and had an okay meal that rose to pretty good at best. I might have liked it better if I liked sweet flavors in food, and I think that might be a Filipino idiosyncrasy, but I am not a fan. Another annoyance is that everything is kind of expensive. Nothing is under $7, and most is considerably more. Not even the vegetarian dishes. Really? On the Lower East Side? The food definitely didn’t earn its price tags.

Rating: 6 / 10
Our cost: $130 (just food, they’re byob with small corkage fees)
Noise level: a bit noisy, not bad
Chance of walking in: not great. You can reserve for **parties of 4 or more.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

11.18.09

Review of Georgia’s Eastside BBQ, Monday September 2009

Posted in American, Barbecue, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 13:06 by Dominique

192 Orchard & E. Houston Sts., 212-253-6280
Great for: fried chicken, ribs, everything really

I love food. (Obviously.) However, I also have to be thin for my careers. I try to use my obsessive love of food as motivation nowadays – so whenever I have a craving for something, I require myself to nail an audition, book a job, or perform well before I can have it. This cuts down on impulsive yummy fattening food, plus I burn some energy working hard to earn it. I think in this case I had a couple successful auditions and ribs and fried chicken were my treat.

I got the fried chicken dinner with French fries and potato salad (which they forgot). It is three big pieces of chicken with lovely crunchy spicy skin. I wished that much of the fat or thick skin had been taken off but it was very good. The fries were great too.  Being a greedy little piglet, I also got a half rack of ribs that were literally fall-off-the-bone tender. There was lots of fat, and the ribs were well spiced with a wet and dry rub. They definitely gave me ideas for next time I make ribs at home!  I wish Georgia’s weren’t so expensive so I could have more.

The restaurant itself is quite small, with seven deuces and four counter stools. I got takeout because I wanted to watch tv too.  You cannot make substitutions and they only take cash. It’s cheap for NYC – I’m still in sticker shock over how much lunch at Hill Country was – but not very cheap compared to 4 dumplings for $1 a few blocks over. (Vanessa’s Dumplings ftw!) The employees are very friendly, notwithstanding the ancient shotgun hanging on one wall.

Rating: 8 / 10
My cost: $25 (I kind of ordered 2 dinners)
Noise level: fairly quiet
Chance of walking in: probably not very good on busy nights.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

08.25.09

Review of The Clerkenwell, Saturday May 2009

Posted in Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Northern European, rated 6 to 6.5 at 04:11 by Dominique

49 Clinton & Stanton/Rivington Sts., 212-614-3234
Great for: good solid English food, a taste of home for Brit expats, late night food

I was trying very hard to qualify for the World Series of Poker through Pokerstars freerolls (obviously, I did not make it this year) but I couldn’t miss my friend L’s birthday either.  I made it through round 1 quickly and was puzzled to find myself sitting alone at a table with all the chips for round 2, but figured I’d lucked into a free pass to the final round.  It was also way past time to leave for dinner so I jumped into a cab.  This is why I forgot my BlackBerry and had to take notes with my camera.

May 2009

We were all delighted to see the eminently reasonable $28 3-course prix fixe menu including one glass of prosecco or rosé.  I didn’t actually love anything on it or want dessert, so I ordered from the regular menu, but it definitely helped to keep costs down.  Those Brits do love their vino!  (I was staying sober until I won the tournament.)

I tried most of the savory dishes on the prix fixe menu, since there were about 16 of us and we ended up getting everything.

chicken

The chicken from this walnut chicken salad with celery leaves, Granny Smith apples and mixed lettuce was a bit bland.  The greens are nice, though I’d prefer that it have no fruit.  The new season asparagus with poached egg and candied lemon as well as the rocket salad with manchego, pear and pine nuts looked good and reportedly tasted good as well.

Clerkenwell pâté

I really liked the rich country-style pâté with red onion marmalade and toasted bread.  There was a lot of bread and the onions were a little too sweet though.
Toad in the Hole

I found my main course of toad in the hole pretty good.  The sausage was a bit bland and the onions were way too sweet as in the marmalade, but I liked the bready stuff and mashed potatoes a lot.  I think the English Ex’s mother made it slightly better.

risotto

The butternut pumpkin risotto with basil pistou (French pesto) and parmesan would have been yummy if I liked any form of pumpkin.

burger

Unfortunately I didn’t get to try any of the well-received burger.  Looks nice, doesn’t it?  

mackerel

As did the pan-fried mackerel with green olives, celery and raisin.

The prosecco, rosé, Champagne and wines are reasonably priced and quite good.  They were working on their late-night liquor license (probably have it by now) and are open ’til about 2am on weekends.  The owner himself often helps wait tables and everyone is very nice.

It’s an unpretentious pub with decent food and a fun atmosphere.  We went soon after they opened, so I expect they have worked out some of the kinks.  It’s a lovely place to start the night and linger.  As for me, I had to dash the minute I finished my entrée but I certainly had ample wine to drown my sorrows when I came back later.

[When I got home an hour later the tournament said I'd been sitting out too long.  I tried to salvage the situation but they didn't know why I'd been alone in the first place so I was probably the victim of a computer glitch.  Terribly disappointing, that and the many other times I battled impossible odds to win a round, only to be eliminated eventually.  Once I had one small blind left against three other people - I trounced them all in thirty minutes. Didn't carry over to the next round.]

Rating: 6.5 / 10
My cost: $30 (no drinks)
Noise level: quite loud
Chance of walking in: it might get pretty slammed as people find out about it.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

08.23.09

Review of Shopsin’s, Thursday April 2009

Posted in American, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, eclectic, rated 9 to 10 at 01:22 by Dominique

120 Essex St. Stall 16 & Delancey (enter from door on corner, next to cheese shop), 212-924-5160
Great for: quirky but delicious food, interesting conversation, après-shopping eats

I was terrified of eating here, as I’ve heard about Kenny’s legendary temper and read firsthand accounts of people being cursed or chucked out.  But as a fledgling restaurant critic it’s my duty to go and review food… so I plucked up my courage and ventured in one sunny day.   I’m not sure if I was wearing my sling (from the shoulder-shattering incident) – in fact, I don’t think I was – but Kenny and his son were lovely to me.  I even committed the idiotic faux pas of asking for suggestions from the bewilderingly enormous menu in 10-point font on double-sided legal paper and they scolded “WHAT?!” but laughed and said cute girls are allowed to ask questions.  I don’t know why I forgot you’re not supposed to.  I was so nervous I even dropped my phone.  Anyway, they quickly put me at ease and we chatted away for the next hour.

I got way too much food.  The sliders with cheese and pickles would have been enough by themselves, but then I wouldn’t have experienced the ecstasy that is the fried potato salad.  You know when meat is marinated and juicy and tender and you just want to keep on biting into it?  That’s how the burgers were, with a great contrast in the pickles.  I got mozzarella with the fried potato salad instead of the regular blue cheese and it was just wonderful.  The potato chunks were small enough that I didn’t tire of eating them, and crispy and flavorful to boot.  I ate sooo much.

I only wish I could eat there more often!  It’s a bit expensive, but definitely worth the money.  All the dishes are quite large, as well.  Most sandwiches are about $15 and the skillets are over $20.  It’s not a very big place (though I like how it feels like a homey kitchen), they stop accepting new orders around 2, and are only open weekdays and Saturdays, so it takes some determination to get there unless you’re technically jobless like me.  Plus, if you act fake or snobby or are ridiculously picky about food (vegans seem to be especially reviled) or annoy Kenny in some way, he’ll probably refuse to serve you.  So be real.  And nice-looking apparently helps.

Rating: 9 / 10
Cost: $20 (this is not a cheapie lunch place)
Noise level: however loud Kenny has to yell to the kitchen
Chance of walking in: might be ok after the lunch rush – they don’t do dinner any more.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

08.05.09

Review of An Choi, Tuesday April 2009

Posted in Asian, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Southeast Asian, rated 6 to 6.5 at 02:10 by Dominique

85 Orchard & Broome/Grand Sts., 212-226-3700
Great for: upscale pho without weird cuts of meat, sandwich takeout (you can’t have the pho to go)

[Sorry for the hiatus.  Poker has been taking up most of my time when I'm actually on the computer, plus I've been taking classes and I'm in a soon-upcoming play. But in an effort at discipline, I've banned myself from online poker until I'm caught up here. Also I'm catching fuck-all for cards so this should save me some money and grief. At least I'm still winning in live games. And cooking is going well.]

I was sad Elyssa Dido closed, but this place is pretty good too. For some reason, the night before I had a craving for pho, but they aren’t open on Mondays. Fortunately for my readers I was able to wait until the next night.

I got the last dish of goi cuon, a salad roll with shrimp, greens, herbs and peanut sauce. It was light and pretty good, though the shrimp were a bit dry.  I liked the sauce, which is surprising because I usually hate peanut anything.  My pho bo with cinnamon cloves, star anise, brisket, eye round and optional meatballs was decent. The thin-sliced meat was very nice. I was happy that it was all meat I could eat – I know, I know, I’m a bad Chinese girl for hating tendon and other offal-type things, but it’s just so yucky to me.  I found the broth tasty and the noodles a little too thin.

It’s a really narrow space, so you’re pretty much guaranteed a wait at peak hours.  It’s also hot, and expensive for what it is (especially considering dirt-cheap fantastic Vietnamese places are a few blocks away in Chinatown), so even though it’s around the corner from me, I doubt I’ll become a regular.

Rating: 6.5 / 10
Cost: $20
Noise level: it’s a small space, so depends on the people
Chance of walking in: probably not good for now, since it’s new.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

07.14.09

Review of Brown, lunch Tuesday April 2009

Posted in American, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 6 to 6.5 at 02:04 by Dominique

61 Hester & Ludlow Sts., 212-477-2427
Great for: if you’re on the Lower East Side shopping and it’s an odd (non-peak) hour

My friend S is great.  The whole time I was recovering from my shoulder injury she checked on me almost every day and made time for lunch with me quite often.  This was one of those days.  We were lucky we both had stuff to do until about 3 pm, so we avoided the whole lunch rush.

Her big plate of tuna salad with greens and toast was pretty good.  My mac and fontina cheese with black forest ham was actually with penne and also decent.  I liked the lightness of the cheese, but I can’t call the dish very memorable.  The small size is definitely enough for one hungry person.

They’ve got a rustic wooden theme going on with the décor.  We had a nice waitress.  I hear they’re packed on weekends for brunch – not sure why, from the food we had, but it is a cute little place.

Rating: 6.5 / 10
Our cost: $30 (lunch, no drinks)
Noise level: probably not too bad
Chance of walking in: not good during brunch.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

04.19.09

Review of Café Katja, Tuesday March 2009

Posted in Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, Northern European, rated 7 to 7.5 at 16:02 by Dominique

79 Orchard & Broome/Grand Sts., 212-219-9545
Great for: Reuben sandwich, snacking

My very good friend S came over to take care of me, since I was essentially one-armed after my snowboarding accident. I guess all the Percocet made me dopey, because when I went to let her in, I closed my door and locked us out.  While we waited for another friend to bring my spare set of keys, we decided to get some food.  I vaguely remembered hearing about this fantastic little Austrian place near me and we managed to find it.

When I told the waitress I wanted to try their liptauer, she suggested getting the pretzel appetizer which came with that and some other spreads.  They were all delicious and the liptauer was lighter than I expected from something made of cheese.  The pretzel itself was lovely, too, and I have never previously liked any pretzels.

My “Katja’s Ruben” [sic] sandwich was fantastic, a combination of pork belly, cabbage, cheese, pickles and mustard.  The bread had been fried in butter and the whole thing was enormous.  I took half of it home!  The pork belly was very fatty with a rind, but it was easy to separate the meat out.  I loved the cabbage and pickles.  The only thing I disliked was the purple cole slaw, which seemed to have apple cubes in it.  I think if you like cole slaw it might be ok though.

S liked her broiled trout on spinach with fingerling potatoes, though she could have used more spinach to counteract the abundance of butter.  The decent side of brussels sprouts improved with liberal pepper and mustard.

We had a very nice waitress and the chef was friendly too.  The small narrow space is utilized very well and doesn’t feel cramped.  The décor is minimalist but homey.  They have many beers (which I don’t drink) and cocktails (which I was on too much Percocet to drink).  It’s kind of a hidden gem but that stretch of Orchard Street has a lot of other good restaurants.  Definitely go before everyone finds out about it.

Rating: 7.5 / 10
Our cost: $45 (1 app, 2 entrees, 1 side, no drinks)
Noise level: music loud, people pretty quiet
Chance of walking in: not too bad now but hurry, it’s small and the food is very tasty.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

04.02.09

Review of Jin, Monday March 2009

Posted in Asian, Japanese, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 17:06 by Dominique

252 Broome & Orchard/Ludlow Sts., 212-979-0989
Great for: special rolls, tuna amazing roll, good sushi near Chinatown

My snowboarding friend M (from the Fat Hippo post) ended up asking me out.  Something about shared thrills, I guess. :)

He loves Jin and I live practically next door to it, so it was the obvious choice one cold Monday.  To start, we got the mini Japanese pizza, salmon slices, spicy sauce and jalapeño on a rice cake, which was enjoyable though I’d have liked a smaller rice cake.  It was a bit hard to share because they just cut the rice and then draped the salmon on top, but that gave me a good excuse to “accidentally” take extra sashimi.

The tuna amazing roll is everything its name suggests.  It’s a fantastic concoction of spicy tuna, white tuna tempura, black pepper tuna, avocado and scallion that I can only describe as genius.  The black pepper, especially, lifts it considerably above ordinary.   The tempura somehow integrates seamlessly – the whole thing just goes together wonderfully.  We kind of wanted to order another one but the waiter told us about a special tuna and yellowtail jalapeño roll that sounded great, and was.  I could have done with less avocado but then I always can.  I didn’t mind it, actually; I think it helped balance the spiciness of the peppers.  All the special rolls are generously sized and come eight pieces each, so we just got one more little thing.  The agedashi tofu with bonito flakes and scallions was super hot; the outside nice, though the inside needed a bit of flavor.

I’ve been here a couple other times, too.  The regular rolls are fine, not as big or delicious as the specials.  I like their selection of sakes; fiscally reasonable as well as tasty.  The staff are actually Chinese, but attentive and nice.  I think they did a good job with the décor, the music is always chill and fun and it’s rarely crowded.  Plus it’s open until 12 on Fridays and Saturdays (as of April 2009).  They’re definitely getting another visit soon.

Rating: 7.5 / 10
Our cost: $55 (1 tall beer, 2 apps, 2 special rolls)
Noise level: good
Chance of walking in: not too bad.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

03.30.09

Review of Fat Hippo, Saturday February 2009

Posted in American, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 22:38 by Dominique

71 Clinton & Rivington Sts., 212-228-0994
Great for: sharing among piglets, comfort food until 4am (Friday & Saturday, else 2am)

[I shattered my clavicle snowboarding two weeks ago.  I just had surgery - Dominique v2.0, now part titanium! - and am recovering fairly well, but I have to work on my litle brother's frustrating MacBook.  The good news is, there's not much else I can focus on through the pain and Percocets so I'll probably get caught up with reviews this week.  If I say something odd, blame the meds.]

After a long day of snowboarding with my friends M, V and A (and a late night of partying beforehand) I still wasn’t ready to call it quits.  M and some of his friends decided upon dinner here and I was happy to stumble the few blocks over to join them.  It’s a good thing Fat Hippo’s byob policy included bottles of vodka – our Stoli kept us reasonably happy as we waited for our table.  And waited.  And waited some more.  The host told N, who lives across the street, that she could put her name down and come back in 30 to 40 minutes.  When we all showed up 30 minutes later, we were told one of us should have stayed and it’d be another 20 minutes.  Ultimately we waited about an hour and a half from the time we all got there.  It was unenjoyable foreplay, but as it turned out, well worth it for the quality (and wonderfully low price) of the food.

It’s great if you have several people so you can try most of the menu.  We were absolutely starving – it was 10pm and the five of us had polished off most of the vodka, not to mention M and I had been riding all day – and ordered whatever caught our eyes.  We ended up with one app, five entrées and four sides, which was just about the perfect amount.  Our lone app, bite-size mozzarella balls with herb-roasted tomatoes and baby arugula, was well-executed.

We enjoyed the Maryland crab cake with mac and cheese, corn and succotash with roasted garlic caper sauce. It was crisp outside and tender inside with just enough breading. The accompanying vegetables were lovely and crunchy.  We had to load up on two of the burger fondue after reading its description, and that turned out to be a wise decision.  The dish itself reminds me of deconstructionist art.  You get six dollar coin-sized sliders per order; buns bracketing meat, lettuce and tomato, with bacon bits and diced pickles on the side.  The centerpiece is a small, generous cauldron of cheese. We found the best system was to get some cheese on a bun, sprinkle things to taste and then put it all together.  The sliders are surprisingly filling despite their tiny size.  The slender french fries were terrific too, both crunchy and chewy.  We were oddly delighted by the trailer park chicken sampler with sautéed collard greens, raisin sauce and corn bread.  We really liked the beer can-roasted breast and Southern fried drumstick, and then the smoked thigh meat which we discovered after some knifework.  All the meat was tender and I even liked the sauce.  The pork chop was the best of all the dishes.  Stuffed with pulled pork, it also came with bacon, sautéed brussels sprouts and maple jalapeño mustard sauce.  We fought over it a little bit.

The two sides of mac and cheese were definitely not overkill.  They had lovely crunchy spirals with just enough cheese and cream.  The green bean casserole, while not exactly what I was expecting because of the giant mushrooms, was still pretty good. I liked the sauce.  The green tomato gratin is nice if you like tomatoes.  I didn’t detest it despite my lifelong hatred of non-smushed-up tomatoes.

Fat Hippo now has a liquor license, so no more drinking from – I mean, bringing your own bottle.  It won’t be quite as cheap any more but the food at least is really worth it.  They were a bit slow about getting things out when we went, though that’s excusable since they’d officially been open only two weeks.  Our waitress wasn’t the friendliest I’ve ever met – in fact, she seemed to willfully mishear us quite often – but she eventually got the job done.  I liked the stripped-down décor. There was some weird off-putting artwork but it was made up for by the tasteful and unobtrusive strip of mirror and the comfy chairs and banquettes.  I’m excited to come back here soon and try the rest of the menu.

Rating: 8.5 / 10 – lost .5 for waiting but gained back for cheap goodness
Our cost: $115 for 5 people! (1 app, 5 entrees, 4 sides)
Noise level: loud
Chance of walking in: haha. Put your name down and check every 5 minutes and make sure one person is there holding your party’s place.

drawn by Lucas Daniels, the Bibbling Prophet

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