11.24.11
Posted in East Village, Italian, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 21:16 by Dominique
19 1st Ave. & 1st/2nd Sts., 212-420-4900
Great for: focaccino, late-night Italian cravings
The only Frankie’s restaurant I’d been to before this was Falai, and this one confirmed my good opinion of them. Fortunately they’re all a little bit far from me or I’d get really fat.
The arugula with parmigiano reggiano was so fresh it was a bit spicy, and the balsamic vinaigrette balanced wonderfully against the lemon my date and I squeezed on it. It does have to be chopped up and looks enormous, but don’t worry, it’ll disappear quickly.
I liked the cute rigatoni polpettini ragu. There’s just something adorable about tiny meatballs. It could maybe use a little more salt but it was a nice homey, tasty dish with rich red sauce.
The life-changing focaccino, two flat sheets of bread enclosing melty robiola cheese and prosciutto di Parma with a big hit of white truffle, is incredibly decadent and wonderful. The crisp bread and prosciutto were an amazing contrast to the creamy cheese, while the truffle oil was the perfect final touch.
Our waiter was nice and didn’t hover much, probably because it was still busy. The gangsta rap was a bit loud but apparently it’s usually not like that. Overall, it was a very satisfying meal and I was happy.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $75 (app, pasta, main, beer, glass of wine). Cash only
Noise level: kind of loud
Chance of walking in: they’re open until 2am weekdays, 4am weekends; you’ll probably still have to wait.
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06.27.11
Posted in East Village, New York City, New York City Reviews, Northern European, rated 8 to 8.5 at 16:10 by Dominique
103 2nd Ave. & 6th St., 212-253-0470
Great for: everything I tried, stretching out your legs
There really aren’t enough Dutch restaurants in the city. Before, I couldn’t have told you what they eat in the Netherlands besides pot brownies and maybe… chocolate? But if this place is any indication, I definitely like the cuisine. It was a very fitting celebration for me booking my first big commercial and finishing my samurai movie.
The Aussie Astrophysicist and I started with an amuse bouche of broccoli and smoked eel, which was excellent. I love amuses – I’m picky, so it’s good for me to try things outside the stuff I usually order.
The terrific romaine with sausage crumble, pistachios and herring vinaigrette was a really interesting mixture of flavors. I loved the rich, tasty hit of sausage. And the vinaigrette is a dream. I wanted to roll around in it. I never thought I would enjoy a herring-based food so much. The beer-battered lamb sweetbreads with pickled Concord grapes, aïoli of pickling juice and Holland peppers were just as wonderful. They were crunchy and earthy while still being quite tender inside. We dipped all the other dishes in the aïoli, too, it was that good.
The special of halibut, cured for hours with sugar and salt then painted with genever, is worth the wait. It’s soft, subtle and comes in nice big pieces. Like ceviche, only much better. AA and I were intrigued by the hete bliksem (“hot lightning”) and had to check it out. The crisp fingerling potatoes, bacon, apple and stroop (caramel) syrup spiced up with cayenne and thyme were a strange, delicious combination. I actually liked it despite my usual distaste for sweet and savory mixed together. The bacon was insanely fatty and the syrup was not too gooey. They complemented the heaviness of the other ingredients well. I found myself even liking the finely diced apple pieces.
Three appetizers and one side turned out to be enough for two light eaters. My Manolin cocktail was fennel-y and yummy. (Yes, I partly ordered it because it sounds like Manolo.) We had super friendly service from the incredibly knowledgeable bartender. Actually, everyone there was very nice in general.
I was impressed with how much space the restaurant has. It’s so big they left some areas open! It’s especially lovely with their minimalist white and silver decor. Basically, any time I’m in the neighborhood and just got paid, I will definitely stop by.
Rating: 8.5 / 10 (but we didn’t have any entrées)
Our cost: $75 (3 apps, 1 side, 1 cocktail, 1 beer)
Noise level: a bit noisy
Chance of walking in: the wait is probably not too bad.
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02.08.11
Posted in Gramercy, Italian, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 03:18 by Dominique
2 Lexington Ave. & 21st/22nd Sts. in the Gramercy Park Hotel, 212-777-2410
Great for: pasta, sophisticated nights out, dates
The Scholar/Mistress and I share many common interests, the foremost among which is amazing food. (Or maybe reading books. But you guys don’t care about that.) We were delighted to get a reservation to Maialino, which we’d both heard wonderful things about.
Our starter of crostone di fegato (chicken liver) and aged balsamic vinaigrette was great on large half-slices of bread. The balsamic was a nice peppery contrast to the creamy pâté.
For budgetary considerations we got two pastas to share as a main. My bucatini all’amatriciani with pecorino, spicy tomato and guanciale was delightful and spicy. It reminded me of when I’d first had the dish in Rome; this was just as good, with perfectly al dente and wiggly noodles. S/M’s agnolotti corn ravioli with sungolds and ricotta salata was also lovely. We liked the large pasta and all the flavors went together really well.
Surprisingly, one app, two pastas and a generous side of potatoes with rosemary is enough for two hungry girls! We still had a little room for dessert, of course. I went for the affogato, gelato in espresso, which was good but super bitter and delicious simultaneously. S/M ordered the absolutely lovely gianduja budino, a chocolate and hazelnut bread pudding. It was very large and wonderful, especially when we discovered the chocolate melted in the middle.
I’m so glad the hotel finally found a restaurant worthy of it that’s popular too. I definitely wish I could afford to come back often.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $90 (1 app, 2 pastas, 1 side, 2 desserts, 1 lavender mint tea)
Noise level: noisy
Chance of walking in: it might be ok, since the place is huge, but you should call.
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01.18.11
Posted in American, Brooklyn, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 04:03 by Dominique
61 Wythe Ave. & N. 11th St., 718-963-3369
Great for: rock & roll fries, fried chicken, live shows
Generally, I think leaving Manhattan for something we already have here is stupid. (The great Mimi Sheraton agrees with me.) There are several Blue Ribbons and amazing fried chicken all over this borough. But I’m a loyal friend so Bubbly Blonde and I went to support my actress friend’s burlesque troupe. My shoot ran so late I actually didn’t see her act, which apparently involved independently rotating tassels, but the food amply made up for annoying travel and missing the sexiness.
Bubbly Blonde and I were naughty and started with the rock & roll fries with Cajun spice, gravy, provolone and cheddar. My exact notes are “thin fries dipped in yummy crack.” It was a nice big plate of crispy, gooey, flavorful addiction. In the spirit of thoroughness we also got six bbq wings, which were a bit sweet and pretty good, though I wish the skin were crispy. I was impressed that the accompanying dipping sauce had actual blue cheese crumbles in it. The honey barbecue sauce is decent too. I can’t say $9 is a great price, though.
We had to wait a bit longer for our eight pieces of mixed white and dark chicken. They are lovely big pieces with crunchy batter and juicy, tender meat. It’s even nicer that they are $22, especially since a half chicken dinner with bread, collard greens and mashed potatoes is $21. I couldn’t stop myself from finishing my half despite having eaten so much already. The side of coleslaw is good and I don’t even like coleslaw.
The service can be spotty since the place is so big. It is also not cheap; one Coke is $3. Regardless, I would actually consider making the trek back just for the food.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $60
Noise level: cacophony
Chance of walking in: good.
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01.05.11
Posted in American, Chelsea, Meatpacking District, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 23:30 by Dominique
409 W. 14th St. & 9th Ave., 646-289-3930
Great for: food, cocktails, large parties, an entire night out in one place
The Music Exec liked to impress me, and he certainly did a good job picking this place. I used to party here when it was Lotus… those were fun nights. I was not expecting much after reading some snide reviews so I was very pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food.
We started with a special appetizer of grilled octopus in lovely romanesco sauce with chorizo and almond. The octopus was soft, just the way I like it, and as it so rarely is. The tuna tartare tacos with avocado, citron-soy and red chili aïoli were also wonderful.
His medium rare New York strip steak with peppercorn sauce was a little more towards medium, but still quite good. The meat itself is flavorful even without the delicious sauce. It was also nice and big, maybe twelve ounces. My pan-roasted cod and crispy rock shrimp with ramps, snap peas, young ginger and sweet soy was terrific. Everything was tender, juicy, plump and bursting with flavor. I actually found the soy sauce salty, a good contrast to the near sweetness of the seafood.
We couldn’t resist a side order of truffled Parmesan herb fries. They are as crispy and addictive as you could desire. I was starving, to be sure, but they’re truly awesome.
The cocktails here are expensive and great. Our waitress wasn’t sure which pinot noir ME wanted so she brought both bottles; she was that thorough all night.
Sitting upstairs is nice and noisy, though not too much so. The tables have extremely sharp metal corners but are wide enough that you probably won’t hurt yourself until you’ve had a few drinks, by which time you won’t care. Although we didn’t have trouble making a reservation the day before, the place was totally packed.
The place turns into a club after dinner, so it’s basically a one-stop shop for going out. The next time I want a pricey, crazy, delicious night out with rich friends, this will be my choice.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $195 (2 apps, 2 mains, 1 side, 2 drinks)
Noise level: the people are loud but the music is quiet enough
Chance of walking in: you probably can’t. Call ahead and bring ten friends to share the fun.
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01.02.11
Posted in Alphabet City, brunch, East Village, Italian, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 14:35 by Dominique
156 East 2nd St. near Ave. A, 212-477-7600
Great for: brunch (so far)
The Australian Astrophysicist lives near Tompkins Square Park and consequently I have been trying places east of 1st Avenue. This place is worth the walk.
The garlicky white beans that come with the bread basket are delicious, and I’m not even a fan of beans. We were soon distracted by terrific poached eggs. Mine were on a large block of tasty grilled polenta with prosciutto di Parma, shaved Parmesan, abundant fennel and aged balsamico. It was so much deliciousness I actually could not finish it. His eggs Benedict came with great hollandaise sauce, pancetta, potatoes and mixed greens.
The place is cute inside with a surprising number of tables. Rather twee, but I like it. It’s fun to see the cooks in the open kitchen. Despite watching the entire time, I still have no idea how they poach eggs so efficiently and wonderfully. You should go and see if you can figure it out.
Rating: 8.5 / 10 pending dinner review
Our cost: $40 (2 mains, 2 coffees)
Noise level: not noisy
Chance of walking in: it’s probably packed and they only take reservations for 8 or more. There are two private rooms downstairs though.
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12.27.10
Posted in Italian, New York City, New York City Reviews, NoLIta, rated 8 to 8.5, SoHo at 19:54 by Dominique
55 East Houston & Mott Sts., 212-274-8881
Great for: pasta, reliably excellent food, large parties – you can have your own room
I came here several years ago with a friend and I remember really liking it. I’m happy to see it has expanded into a sort of annex next door, which I think they occasionally use as private event space. On this particular evening it was open to the public. My date was a guy I went to law school with (yes, I went when I was very young) and recently ran into while dealing a poker game. Manhattan is a small world.
I have to commend their bread first. As my faithful readers know, I don’t eat bread unless a sandwich needs fingerholds. When I noticed salami peeping out of this, though, I had to try it. I managed to stop myself after two whole slices. That probably also had to do with the arrival of the very nicely done calamari. I liked the crispy spicy batter, although the calamari was a bit rubbery. The marinara was lovely and addictive.
The black ink linguine with shrimp in marinara was so awesome I ate until my tummy hurt. I blame it on the soft, yet not sticky, noodles and lots of delightful, plump shrimp. Also, of course, the magical marinara. The linguine alla vongole was light and wonderful. It was not drowned in olive oil as at so many restaurants. I want to copy that when I make it at home.
Everything was excellent. I particularly like the black wood tables. I’m only sorry I didn’t come back sooner.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $75
Noise level: quiet
Chance of walking in: decent. It’s not very obtrusive and the rest of the block kind of is.
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12.26.10
Posted in fusion, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, SoHo at 22:07 by Dominique
210 Elizabeth near Prince St., 212-343-7011
Great for: anchovies, lamb sirloin, sophisticated dining, brunch
In the spirit of adventure, I reconnected with the Music Exec from last year. We meant to go to Balaboosta, but I stupidly didn’t make reservations and they had a 45-minute wait. So we wandered over to Public and I’m glad I got to try their dinner. I fondly remember brunch here three years ago.
We started with a random appetizer of marinated white anchovies, which turned out to be really good. I liked the combination of greens, onions and fish. Anchovies are unfairly maligned – they needn’t be horrid and brown and canned. They can be lovely just like anything else.
I loved my roast lamb sirloin on crispy goat cheese polenta with saffron-braised baby vegetables and harissa aïoli. It’s a good thing it’s quite a small dish, since the lamb is very rich. The flavors went together well, the sauce was perfect, and the polenta was interesting and delicious. His grilled swordfish with wheatberry couscous, baba ghanoush & minted courgettes (eggplant) was surprisingly good considering how much I dislike most of those things. Swordfish tends to be tough, but here it was fairly tender and its flavor really came through.
I was trying to stick to my ascetic diet but when he saw my eyes light up at the description, ME persuaded me to get the sticky toffee pudding with Armagnac ice cream and hot caramel sauce. I’m so glad – I’ve loved sticky toffee pudding since I discovered it at Schiller’s. It is ridiculously decadent despite being a sort of fruitcake (it’s made of figs, go figure). And totally worth it. They do it really well here; it was desirable from first to last bite.
Service is as fitting as the décor. The place is what I think of as classic New York, with a clean minimalist look, bright enough to see but dim enough to be romantic. It definitely stays on my list.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $165 (3 glasses wine, 1.5 bottles water, 1 app, 2 mains, 1 dessert)
Noise level: convivial hum
Chance of walking in: it’s really big so you have an okay chance.
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11.26.10
Posted in American, eclectic, Greenwich Village, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 17:16 by Dominique
9 Jones & W. 4th Sts., 212-929-6868
Great for: salad, duck meatballs, agnolotti, really pretty much anything
I have never watched Top Chef. I suppose this could be an honorable exception, but I have a strict no-reality-show policy. There are so many scripted shows I watch for work, I just don’t have the time or desire for much else. Plus, looking at food on TV makes me hungrier. All this is to say that I had no prior knowledge of Harold Dieterle except that he won one of the seasons. And I am glad I could be so pleasantly surprised.
Blackboard Eats offered a 30% discount which I shared with my good friends the Average Wonderwoman (her choice of name) and B. We started with some crisp, light, tasty duck fat popcorn. If they served this in movie theatres I would have a hard time not eating it. AW stayed on the somewhat healthy path with a great appetizer of Bibb lettuce, hearts of palm, peppercress, mango, manchego and toasted macadamia nut vinaigrette. My spicy duck meatballs with mint cavatelli, water spinach and quail egg were my favorite of the whole meal. It’s four big meatballs in scrumptious sauce.
B’s crispy lamb belly with pickled rhubarb, black lentils, feta froth and Banyuls-vanilla caramel was surprisingly not sweet. The lamb bits are chunky but not fatty – the dish is very satisfying and large. Chef Dieterle really has a gift for combining things that sound like they wouldn’t get along and turning them into a harmonious flavor symphony. (Even six months later, the memory of the food inspires me to purple prose.)
B ordered the wonderful spicy duck burger with jack cheese, avocado and spicy fries. They brought duck breast by accident and immediately and graciously corrected it. The finely minced patty is seasoned well, and very filling. The fries are more spiced than hot, and so good I had to strictly limit myself to only a few.
I got the tasting of wild boar, which included grilled strip loin, crispy boar belly in crispy eggroll skin and a stuffed cabbage bon bon. The strip loin I liked though it was a bit tough, I think just because it’s game. The belly was a fat explosion as expected, and tasty though I didn’t much care for the sweet red sauce under it. I liked the cabbage thing; I didn’t know what to expect, and it turned out to be sausage-like.
AW’s fiddlehead fern agnolotti with honshimeji mushrooms, lemon zest, asparagus and aged pecorino were delicately delicious. Fiddleheads are interesting, crunchy and earthy. I decided I like them, but not enough to go to the greenmarket. The asparagus were great, the agnolotti the length of my finger and lovely.
They brought some yummy petits fours and coconut ginger cookies, as if we needed any more calories after all the meat and wonderfulness. Their cocktail list is small but a good bet. I can recommend the Perilla 75 and Liliko’i personally.
We had a hot, very thoughtful waiter. The restaurant is bigger than you’d expect for the area, filled with gorgeous dark wood and lots of candles and light. Overall, the portions are nice and large, maybe not mind-blowing but really good value for the amount of food and how tasty it is.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $190 not including discount (2 cocktails, 1 glass wine, 1 bar snack, 3 apps, 3 entrees)
Noise level: convivial hum
Chance of walking in: you want to reserve. It was full on a Sunday at 8:30, and the place is not small.
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10.25.10
Posted in Asian, Barbecue, Japanese, Lower East Side, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 00:30 by Dominique
198 Orchard and Houston Sts. [already closed, sadly]
Great for: hibachi, of course
The dreaded NYC hibachi curse has struck again. I was so happy when I noticed this place opened up by my house, and devastated when I realized after several unanswered phone calls that they had closed in a few short months. I guess this is a bit of a useless review, but at least I can memorialize them. Cheap, delicious and nearby – I’m gutted they didn’t make it.
The then-Boyfriend and I liked the edamame, though $4 was a little much for it. The tempura appetizer with two giant shrimp and five large vegetable slices was crisp, light, wonderful and only $6.95. (Maybe that’s why they went out of business.) I am so tired of Japanese restaurants that charge an arm and a leg for maybe one shrimp, one sad little broccoli spear and a mushroom or slice of taro. This app was a big step in the right direction.
I was delighted with my hibachi entrée of filet mignon plus shrimp with fried rice and side of broccoli. The beef was not super tender but everything was very flavorful and I could tell they didn’t just drown it all in butter, which is usually why hibachi tastes so awesome. I was surprised to get four broccoli pieces for $4, especially considering the entire entrée was only $11.95. He got filet mignon plus teriyaki chicken, which was absolutely fantastic. I wish I’d been able to have it again so I could figure out how to make it myself. The mango ice cream was also great and enormous, to boot.
Not only did JC have mostly cheap, very tasty food, the décor was nice and restrained. Benihana could learn something from them. There was a sushi bar in front and they made the hibachi things in the kitchen. My impression, admittedly from just one visit, is that maybe they didn’t think through their pricing very well. Some things were oddly expensive, while others were strangely cheap. I am not sure I could buy filet mignon raw at Whole Foods for $11.95/pound, let alone cooked and with shrimp and fried rice. The location was good for foot traffic and random walk-ins, so I don’t think that was it. Anyway, I am very sad they closed. I really wanted to support them and it’s too bad I didn’t get the chance to do so more than once.
Rating: 8.5 / 10 (extra .5 for being super cheap and really good)
Our cost: $$45 (15% off)
Noise level: quiet
Chance of walking in: will never happen again. *sob*
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