08.06.10
Posted in Asian, Chinatown/Little Italy, Chinese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 00:49 by Dominique
66 Bayard & Elizabeth/Mott Sts., 212-625-2359
Great for: dumplings of all kinds, especially guo tieh (potstickers)
I live near Vanessa’s and their four dumplings for $1, but sometimes I make the trek over here for juicy, crisp, slender potstickers. Only my parents make them better (though they grind their own meat, so that’s not quite a fair comparison). I have been known to eat a plate of ten all by myself!
Their xiao long bao and scallion pancakes are pretty good too. Both are a little thick and could use some more spice – only in comparison with Shanghai Café, though. In general Green Bo does everything quite well. I was delighted to find yummy nian gao (oval rice cakes) here, and if I could tear myself away from the dumplings I’d be able to try many of the other delicious-looking things I see every time I’m here.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $15
Noise level: it’s pretty loud during lunch
Chance of walking in: outside of peak hours, not too bad. Cash only.
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07.11.10
Posted in East Village, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 23:24 by Dominique
25 Cooper Square & 5th/6th St., 212-475-3400
Great for: large parties, ciabatta, scallops, lobster, tajarin
I seem to be having trouble finishing this review, so if it’s a little rough, sorry – I have let it sit for a couple months now, and there are many new things to write about. Like the amazing Beef 7 Ways feast at Má Pêche, the Meatball Shop (good but terribly overpriced), Pulino’s (good but it’s still just pizza, not crack), Steak Shoppe (wonderful! damn the landlord), Minetta Tavern (totally worth it), and Kampuchea‘s rapid decline. It’s a tribute to how good Faustina was that I’m not just skipping it.
For my birthday the (now ex-) Boyfriend took me out to a fancy new restaurant. We lucked into a reservation here because there was a crazy blizzard and a lot of people canceled. I’m a fan of Scott Conant’s from Scarpetta and this was similar, just with smaller plates.
We started with the grilled ciabatta with poached duck egg and fonduta, which was absolutely terrific. The charred thick bread is a good base for the creamy, lovely “sauce” – I actually used some to scoop up the last bits of egg yolk. We weren’t as fond of the stromboli with prosciutto and smoked mozzarella. Though nicely composed, it was pretty bland.
We really enjoyed the lobster susci with concentrated tomatoes. I’ve never had nearly raw lobster, and it was very tasty. I especially loved the tomatoes-turned-into-green sauce underneath. I just wished for more than six little bites. The seared diver scallops with farro, seafood and sunchoke purée were perfectly cooked and big. The purée and nearly crisp farro made a good salty offset. A small dish, it is deceptively filling. It was interesting with lots of flavors and textures.
From the larger dishes we got short ribs and spaetzle, which are little pasta twists, with cheese and vegetables. It was quite good and very rich. I was excited for the tajarin with tomato and ricci di mare (sea urchin). It’s maybe not “sex in a bowl” as some people have called it, but it was pretty awesome nonetheless. I loved the perfectly-done tagliatelle and somehow creamy tomato sauce (I guess from the uni). We were quite happy despite the smallness of the dish.
Just in case all that wasn’t enough food, we also got a side of herbed fries. They were only fine, though better with their sauce. I was expecting better, as they seemed really popular. I suppose everyone else thought fries would be a safe bet for extra food too.
For dessert we got a chocolate carmellina with chocolate-caramel mousse, gianduja and mocha (or coffee) ice cream. It was almost as lovely as it looked, with nice little jolts of caffeine.
We had very nice service. The lovely, friendly hostess let me sit for a long while waiting for B, which was unusually kind. Our waiter worried that we hadn’t ordered enough food but it turned out to be enough even for a birthday piglet. I loved the sophisticated vibe, which is probably why it was packed even on a blizzard night – cool dark wood with light grey leather is nice. The place is sort of dim but a lot of strategically-placed lighting helps. It’s ridiculously confusing to get into the restaurant, though I’m not sure if that’s temporary.
The menu is mostly raw bar and hot apps with some pastas and two mains. I appreciated the music at a decent volume level, and sexy but not silly selections (some restaurants really go overboard). It is mainly very good food; somewhat inconsistent, but a good time regardless.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $160 (3 small, 1 big plate, 1 pasta, 1 side, 1 dessert, 2 cocktails, 1 beer)
Noise level: not too loud
Chance of walking in: you definitely want to call.
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03.25.10
Posted in Italian, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, SoHo, rated 8 to 8.5 at 21:37 by Dominique
200 Mott & Spring Sts., 212-966-0904
Great for: crostone, quiet awesome Italian, logophiles
I love wandering around SoHo and the Lower East Side. There’s always a new little shop or restaurant, and sometimes it’s not even new; it’s only been hiding from you. That was the case with Epistrophy, which apparently has been right there for nearly 6 years and yet invisible to me the whole time. I’m just glad I got through platform 9 3/4 and found it – sometimes it still disappears on me, but I just keep the address firmly in my mind.
The Boyfriend suggested we start with crostone al pomodoro and mozzarella, which turned out to be the best idea ever. The dish is deceptively simple; toast with melted cheese and thin-sliced tomatoes. The mozzarella helped meld all the flavors together and protect me against the tomato texture, while the toast is a terrific half inch of crunchiness that is just the right level of crisp because of the cheese and tomato juices. The Boyfriend was in raptures, and has in fact asked for this dish on several occasions since. It is perfect.
His short ribs in red wine and herbs with roast potatoes were lovely, salty, dense and stewy with tender meat. The potatoes were well-spiced and delicious. It might have been a tiny bit dry but overall it was really lovely and I had to stop myself from sneaking too many bites. My pork chops Milanese with fennel and arugula in lemon dressing were also very good. I loved the salad and the pork was exactly the light, delicious dish I wished for. They must have an expert meat tenderizer – the chops were uniformly thin, so much so that the little bit they were overcooked didn’t even matter.
I got a big kick out of their word-themed décor. It’s interesting that they serve Italian food but the place has a French feel, especially with the distressed brick walls. It looks like an old antique store with lots of books. Which is basically my idea of heaven, plus they serve terrific food!!!
Rating: 8 / 10 (in April 2010 just as good)
Our cost: $55
Noise level: the hum of happy, well-fed people
Chance of walking in: low; I’ve been there on a late Monday night and it’s still packed.
In April, we tried the crostoni misti, which was almost as good as the simple tomato kind. I very much like the soppressata one. The tilapia in spiced tomato sauce (fregola al sugo di pesce) is very yummy and spiced as advertised. I am starting to suspect that they cook things super hot here, as the meats and fish we’ve tried have uniformly been a teeny bit too well done. The Boyfriend’s ravioli al carciofi with basil pesto, pinenuts and parmesan was terrific, with flavors that go together really well. I had to sit on my hands for a bit to stop stealing nibbles.
Their raspberry cheesecake is so scrumptious I want to roll around in it. It’s creamy, not too sweet, with nice tart raspberries and a nice contrast of chocolate drizzle. They also have lovely house wines.
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03.09.10
Posted in Asian, Chinatown/Little Italy, Chinese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 00:22 by Dominique
100 Mott & Hester/Canal Sts., 212-966-3988
Great for: scallion pancakes, soup dumplings, crispy half duck, any Shanghai specialties
I am half Shanghainese on my mother’s side. When I was growing up, I thought that nian gao, scallion pancakes and juicy dumplings were totally normal things on a menu. After all, we had them every time we went out. It wasn’t until I had to forage for Chinese food on my own that I realized how difficult it is to find Shanghai food, well-made or otherwise.
These are the best scallion pancakes I have had in years, and I’ve had them in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Vancouver and San Francisco. They are fluffy and don’t even need sauce, which I can’t remember ever not needing. Somehow they are many-layered without being thick, and crispy without dripping with oil. My only wish is that they would have more than four per order. But at $1.75/order, that is not a problem.
The soup dumplings, also known as xiao long bao, are generally excellent. They are a little inconsistent with the thickness of the skin; one time, too thick, every other time, perfect. In any case, the flavor is to die for; most importantly, they always have lots of “soup.” In case you didn’t know, do not shove the whole dumpling in your mouth. Put it in a Chinese soup spoon, bite a little hole, and slurp out the juices. Add any sauces you may desire and nibble at the rest. If you eat it all in one bite, you will burn your tongue and/or throat and your friends will laugh at you while your eyes water in pain.
The only places in the city that compete with the quality of the soup dumplings are Shanghai Pavilion and Chinatown Brasserie. (Forget Joe’s Shanghai; it’s overpriced and for tourists who don’t know any better. Sorry to burst your bubble, tourists.) Plus, you get eight dumplings for $4.25, or with crab for $6.25. That is crazy cheap, not to mention crazy good.
The wonton noodle soup had very interesting, atypical wontons with giant chives, pork and shrimp in translucent skin instead of white. The noodles were the big fat white kind and the broth was a little too subtle, but still quite good. Maybe the noodles needed to be steeped longer – they were too big not to be flavored.
The waiters were fast and pretty polite, especially for a Chinese place. It’s quite big with standard Chinatown décor. This place is a godsend!
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $15
Noise level: quite noisy
Chance of walking in: not great, plus they’re always busy and close at 9pm most days.
The crispy half duck is also excellent. A juicy, crunchy delight bursting with flavor, it is a miracle at only $11.
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03.03.10
Posted in American, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, SoHo, rated 8 to 8.5 at 01:04 by Dominique
264 Elizabeth & E. Houston Sts., 212-966-9640
Great for: everything, private parties
I am so happy to discover a great new restaurant in my neighborhood. Plus, it’s really close to SoHo Billiards, where the Boyfriend practices, so we’ll probably be coming back often.
We started with perfectly cooked mussels with andouille, white wine and herb butter. They were terrific. Not gritty and the sausage was perfectly salted. The broth was so yummy I actually used bread to eat more of it.
In an attempt to be healthy, I got the striped bass with potato purée, snap pea emulsion, grilled onion and sopressata. There was no sopressata that I could find but the dish was just lovely, with nice soft fish and some crunchy skin. It was kind of a small portion and the peas were a little unexpected but overall I really liked it. My included side of local greens in soy vinaigrette was absolutely great. I loved the dressing and the leaves were a little big but I was delighted to stuff it all in my mouth. His shell steak au poivre was also terrific. The meat was evenly cooked and there were lots of fries with wonderful garlic chili mayo.
We had very friendly service. It’s really cute inside, with an inner dining room after you get past the large bar. There’s a back room with stripper poles for private parties. (The next time I do a birthday dinner, I’m so there.)
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $85 (1 big app, 2 Lionshead pilsners)
Noise level: convivial hum
Chance of walking in: it won’t stay undiscovered for long – you probably want to call first.
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12.19.09
Posted in Asian, East Village, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, eclectic, rated 8 to 8.5 at 11:53 by Dominique
171 1st Ave. & 10th/11th Sts., 212-777-7773
Great for: pork buns, ramen, enough fried chicken to feed a small army, trying interesting entrées
In the beginning, there was Noodle Bar. David Chang looked around, and saw that it was good (and that people were willing to line up for hours to get a chance at his food). So he created Ssäm Bar, Ko, Milk Bar and just this month, Má Pêche. I love his food, whichever market level he aims at, but Noodle Bar was one of the first restaurants that introduced me to the foodie world, and it has a special place in my heart. This particular visit was for the fried chicken meal, courtesy of my friend T’s reservation-snagging skills.
One girl was very late and the rest of us used that as an excuse to get the life-changing pork and chicken buns. To stave off starvation, you understand. I had resisted trying those for a long time, since I don’t eat bread or fat. But the buns are worth going off any diet. My only concession to staying slim is letting fat drip out the back. Each order has two buns, which you will probably want to yourself. The chicken version has a piece of fried skin included, which is totally awesome, though not quite as orgasmic as the pork.
At long last, it was time for the giant platter of two fried chickens. 
One is seasoned with Old Bay; the other is Korean-style. I preferred the Old Bay style, though it’s a tad too salty. It is the perfect level of crunchy and crispy, though. The Korean chicken was also good, but I felt the sauce could have been integrated into the meat more. As if all that chicken weren’t enough, the meal is accompanied by a bowl of lovely crisp veggies, four sauces and moo shu wraps. 
I didn’t use the last, but I actually enjoyed the greens, and everyone was delighted with their wraps. I found myself eating raw radishes for the very first time in my life (with liberal dollops of jalapeño chili sauce). Generally a fun time, especially at $100 for two chickens with unlimited fixins’ for six people. It was not quite as perfect as I thought it might be, but I’d give the chicken a solid 7.5 / 10.
The ramens are also very tasty (from several other visits). The Momofuku ramen is salty goodness and the pork ramen is cheaper but likewise demands to be completely finished. Both have nice big noodles and a good mix of vegetables. There are quite a few other choices in ramens.
Noodle Bar is always a good option when I’m in the East Village and not in the mood to try a new restaurant. I tend to keep odd hours and avoid the lines, but if you’ve got enough people with you, it’s still fun since they’ll serve you alcohol while you wait. Plus, I have yet to find anything on the menu that’s not delicious.
Rating: 8.5 / 10 (extra half point for little pockets of heaven on earth)
Cost: it’s not cheap, but it won’t break the bank. Beer, sake and wine are quite reasonably priced as well.
Noise level: it’s always a party there
Chance of walking in: not good. Try to go at off-hours.
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12.10.09
Posted in Flatiron, Latin, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 19:04 by Dominique
31 W.17th St. & 5th/6th Aves., 212-675-7223
Great for: dates, trying something new (and delicious)
I was supposed to go out with P ages ago but I broke my shoulder, and he was busy, then I was busy, and it just ended up happening six months later. I gave him a couple choices and Aldea emerged the winner, in more ways than one.
His appetizer of shrimp alhinho could have been cooked less, but it was nice, with smoky sauce and a generous four shrimp. Despite the presence of mushrooms I was delighted with the peas and bacon. And not just because I love bacon; the peas were tasty and firm, and all the flavors went together very well.
His arroz con pato was terrific. We loved the cracklings and chorizo, though not so much the apricot purée, and the duck was totally addictive. I would be so happy if the little Chinese restaurants near me would make fried rice this way! My Niman Ranch pork loin over corn and bacon with potato cubes was also great. There was lots of pork and something pickled that sharpened the taste of everything else. I liked how the meat was quite tender. It could maybe have come off the fire a tad earlier but overall it was really impressive. For once, I found the entrées better than the apps. It is usually the other way around.
To finish we got the strawberry tasting. I loved the mousse-like semifreddo and the sorbet. The black pepper biscuit was funny but actually quite nice with the strawberries & cream. I was very glad we ordered it.
The service tends toward the crazy attentive; they told us everything in every dish as it was set it down. Our waiter was very nice, patient and friendly while also leaving us alone enough. Plus the restaurant is decorated in the most tasteful blue and silver – it looks so carefully designed I was afraid to knock into things. If this is what Portuguese cuisine is like, I can’t wait to go to Lisbon. (Although my understanding is that this is more fusion than traditionally Portuguese.)
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $110
Noise level: low, especially upstairs, and the music is a good volume
Chance of walking in: probably not high. It’s delicious.
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11.18.09
Posted in American, Barbecue, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 13:06 by Dominique
192 Orchard & E. Houston Sts., 212-253-6280
Great for: fried chicken, ribs, everything really
I love food. (Obviously.) However, I also have to be thin for my careers. I try to use my obsessive love of food as motivation nowadays – so whenever I have a craving for something, I require myself to nail an audition, book a job, or perform well before I can have it. This cuts down on impulsive yummy fattening food, plus I burn some energy working hard to earn it. I think in this case I had a couple successful auditions and ribs and fried chicken were my treat.
I got the fried chicken dinner with French fries and potato salad (which they forgot). It is three big pieces of chicken with lovely crunchy spicy skin. I wished that much of the fat or thick skin had been taken off but it was very good. The fries were great too. Being a greedy little piglet, I also got a half rack of ribs that were literally fall-off-the-bone tender. There was lots of fat, and the ribs were well spiced with a wet and dry rub. They definitely gave me ideas for next time I make ribs at home! I wish Georgia’s weren’t so expensive so I could have more.
The restaurant itself is quite small, with seven deuces and four counter stools. I got takeout because I wanted to watch tv too. You cannot make substitutions and they only take cash. It’s cheap for NYC – I’m still in sticker shock over how much lunch at Hill Country was – but not very cheap compared to 4 dumplings for $1 a few blocks over. (Vanessa’s Dumplings ftw!) The employees are very friendly, notwithstanding the ancient shotgun hanging on one wall.
Rating: 8 / 10
My cost: $25 (I kind of ordered 2 dinners)
Noise level: fairly quiet
Chance of walking in: probably not very good on busy nights.
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09.02.09
Posted in Asian, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Queens, Southeast Asian, rated 8 to 8.5 at 00:55 by Dominique
6413 39th Ave. & 64th St., Woodside, Queens, 718-899-9585
Great for: savory Thai food, foodie excursions outside Manhattan, medium-size groups
My friend G was about to move to London for six months of work so it was the perfect time to have a girls’ dinner. She’s really special – I only leave Manhattan for things that start with p! (Planes, poker, and plays that I’m in. Though I guess you could say this was for pad thai.) Fortunately, it was very good food. I’m not sure it was worth an hour’s ride on two trains, but that’s a pretty tough standard.
We started with a mild roasted duck salad. They were generous with the large duck pieces, and the ginger was a good compliment to the onions, scallions and cucumbers drizzled with vinaigrette. The fried pork-crabmeat roll with honey sauce was tasty without being too much. The meat is ground fine and wrapped in a bit of tofu skin. The tom yum shrimp and mushrooms in hot and sour soup is very good, with surprisingly succulent shrimp.
The pad thai with shrimp did not disappoint. The noodles were discrete and not stuck together too much, and there was just the right amount of sauce. I rarely order pad thai but this went a long way toward changing my mind. So did the green curry with chicken, despite the many times I’ve tried curries and not been a fan. The red snapper with tomato, pineapple and onion in sweet and sour sauce was better without the sauce, which wasn’t as sweet as I’d feared it would be. Our favorite was the sautéed Chinese broccoli with crispy pork. With barely any vegetables, the terrific, crispy meat was the star of the dish, and of our whole meal.
Two brown and two coconut rice bowls were enough for the five of us. I didn’t like any of the desserts, unfortunately. Tapioca soup with ice cubes and sweet milk, green tapioca with coconut milk and corn, coconut on rice cake with rice crisps… no thanks. Some of them were warm, none of them were very sweet, and all of them were just eh. Asian desserts are probably just not my cup of tea though. The other girls seemed fairly happy. We definitely ordered the right amount of food – one appetizer and one main per two people is just about right. Each dish is quite generous, and fresh and juicy to boot.
The dining room is huge and packed at all times. I like the décor, which they evidently put thought into it. It’s cash only and no reservations. If I’m remotely in the area I will definitely make an effort to come again.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $125 for 5 people (3 apps, 3 entrees, 1 side, 4 rice bowls, 1 tea, 1 wine, 1 iced tea)
Noise level: echoey room packed with loud Asian people
Chance of walking in: not good. You’ll probably have to wait, they don’t take reservations.
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08.30.09
Posted in American, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Tribeca, rated 8 to 8.5 at 23:29 by Dominique
134 Reade & Greenwich/Hudson Sts., 212-941-9401
great for: large parties, dates
I was glad the Music Exec picked this restaurant (impressively, without any input from me) – he managed to choose a newish place I’d never been to that was good. Pretty much the trifecta for me as a reviewer.
On his suggestion, I got the “baked potato” app which is really crème fraîche agnolotti in potato brown butter with pancetta and truffle essence. It is strong-tasting but I really enjoyed it. The agnolotti are like stretched-out, slender ravioli with lovely pancetta inside. There was quite a lot of olive oil. His wild kampachi tartare with avocado, American caviar and potato chips was citrusy and good.
I loved my bacon-wrapped pork chop over mashed potatoes with peas and pickled onions. It seemed to be breading instead of bacon, but I have no quibble with the large chop or how juicy and tender it was. I kind of wanted to pick up the bone at the end, it was so delicious. We also liked his marinated flatiron steak with potato sticks, charred green garlic and red wine peppercorn sauce. All the portions here seem to be very generous.
Pleasant service, cozy farmhouse feel with plenty of tables, terrific food… you pretty much can’t go wrong here. I only wish it were a little closer to me.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $175 (Pellegrino, 3 glasses of wine)
Noise level: not loud, pretty spacious with a lot of wood
Chance of walking in: might be ok.
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