03.03.10
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Midtown East, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 17:10 by Dominique
213 E.45th St. & 3rd/2nd Aves., 212-867-5454
Great for: trying lots of small things, robata (grill) items
I have wanted to try this place since it opened and I heard terrific things about it. Finally, one lunchtime I got to go. Now I want to have dinner there too, especially since I didn’t get to try any robata things. Who knows when that’ll happen, though.
The amuse bouche of grilled octopus was terrific; meaty, not rubbery, and very unexpected at lunchtime (the fact that they served an amuse bouche, not the cephalopod itself). That is only the third time in my life I have unreservedly enjoyed octopus. To the kitchen: bravo!
P got organic teriyaki chicken over rice, which came in a nice, hefty, delicious portion. I was very hungry and did the lunch special where you can get two different things for only slightly more than the price of one. My grilled washu beef was delightful. (Washu is a hybridization of Kobe and Black Angus.) I rarely eat rice, but if you pour such tasty sauce on it I will be forced to happily eat all the saucy bits. I also really liked the salmon flakes with salmon roe over more rice. They clearly craft their dishes with care here, and it showed.
I was pretty full by this time, as you can imagine, when out came a complimentary tiny apple pie flute. I enjoyed my nibble of it, as I did the carafe of Otokoyama Kimoto. The service is deferential and extremely polite, as it is at most Japanese restaurants. This one certainly stays on my list.
Rating: 7.5 / 10, pending dinner visit
Our cost: $70 (lunch, 1 carafe sake)
Noise level: polite hum
Chance of walking in: maybe decent, but I’d probably call ahead.
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02.22.10
Posted in Asian, Greenwich Village, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 6 to 6.5, small plates at 23:56 by Dominique
11 Barrow St. & W.4th St., 212-675-7775
Great for: interesting little plates
I was supposed to audition for this show in the far West Village. They said I should watch it first to be sure I wasn’t offended by the religious mocking. I knew I wouldn’t be, but it’s always nice to see a free show. Except this one. The singing sucked ass, the story made no sense, and if the people had got up on stage and masturbated it would have been far less solipsistic and annoying. In any case, we ran away as soon as the show ended, to a place with redeeming qualities.
We both got the chashu ramen. A simple broth with just noodles, scallions, very thin pork slices and and radish bits, it’s pretty good. I give them props for doing something simply and well. $14 is a little expensive for what it is, though. We got more mileage out of the bottle of organic Sho Chiku Bai Nama.
Our service was nice and the place seems quite popular. There are lots of interesting little plates I’d try in a more adventurous mood.
Rating: 6.5 / 10
Our cost: $55
Noise level: depends how drunk the other patrons are
Chance of walking in: not good.
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01.03.10
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 21:53 by Dominique
245 Eldridge St. & Houston/Stanton Sts., 212-358-7773
Great for: a quiet meal in that random Milk & Honey part of the LES, sushi
It was a sushi kind of Sunday, and after some Blackberry consultation, the New Boyfriend and I settled on this place. Our starter of furikake-dusted calamari with nori, sesame seeds and lime aïoli was pretty good, but not that impressive. The calamari could have been less rubbery and the aïoli was a bit distracting; it needed more spice and less citrus.
I was happier with my sushi sashimi combo. The tuna, salmon and hamachi sushi were well executed, as were the good-size pieces of salmon, tuna, shrimp and yellowtail nigiri. The spicy tuna maki were small and nice. Our favorite thing of the meal was the creative and spicy yellowfin tuna roll with Thai basil.
In a word, the meal was nice. So was our service, mostly. Initially we were the only patrons, and asked them to switch the channel to poker. We sat facing the TV and discussing the action. Then two guys came in and unasked, the owner changed back to baseball. Which the guys, who weren’t even facing the TV, ignored. Poker might be a slightly odd request but I found the switching back quite rude. I’m not deducting points for that; it was just a weird footnote to an otherwise pleasant dinner.
Rating: 7 / 10
Our cost: $65 (1 app, 1 combo, 2 rolls)
Noise level: quiet, but it was empty
Chance of walking in: good.
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12.19.09
Posted in Asian, East Village, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, eclectic, rated 8 to 8.5 at 11:53 by Dominique
171 1st Ave. & 10th/11th Sts., 212-777-7773
Great for: pork buns, ramen, enough fried chicken to feed a small army, trying interesting entrées
In the beginning, there was Noodle Bar. David Chang looked around, and saw that it was good (and that people were willing to line up for hours to get a chance at his food). So he created Ssäm Bar, Ko, Milk Bar and just this month, Má Pêche. I love his food, whichever market level he aims at, but Noodle Bar was one of the first restaurants that introduced me to the foodie world, and it has a special place in my heart. This particular visit was for the fried chicken meal, courtesy of my friend T’s reservation-snagging skills.
One girl was very late and the rest of us used that as an excuse to get the life-changing pork and chicken buns. To stave off starvation, you understand. I had resisted trying those for a long time, since I don’t eat bread or fat. But the buns are worth going off any diet. My only concession to staying slim is letting fat drip out the back. Each order has two buns, which you will probably want to yourself. The chicken version has a piece of fried skin included, which is totally awesome, though not quite as orgasmic as the pork.
At long last, it was time for the giant platter of two fried chickens. 
One is seasoned with Old Bay; the other is Korean-style. I preferred the Old Bay style, though it’s a tad too salty. It is the perfect level of crunchy and crispy, though. The Korean chicken was also good, but I felt the sauce could have been integrated into the meat more. As if all that chicken weren’t enough, the meal is accompanied by a bowl of lovely crisp veggies, four sauces and moo shu wraps. 
I didn’t use the last, but I actually enjoyed the greens, and everyone was delighted with their wraps. I found myself eating raw radishes for the very first time in my life (with liberal dollops of jalapeño chili sauce). Generally a fun time, especially at $100 for two chickens with unlimited fixins’ for six people. It was not quite as perfect as I thought it might be, but I’d give the chicken a solid 7.5 / 10.
The ramens are also very tasty (from several other visits). The Momofuku ramen is salty goodness and the pork ramen is cheaper but likewise demands to be completely finished. Both have nice big noodles and a good mix of vegetables. There are quite a few other choices in ramens.
Noodle Bar is always a good option when I’m in the East Village and not in the mood to try a new restaurant. I tend to keep odd hours and avoid the lines, but if you’ve got enough people with you, it’s still fun since they’ll serve you alcohol while you wait. Plus, I have yet to find anything on the menu that’s not delicious.
Rating: 8.5 / 10 (extra half point for little pockets of heaven on earth)
Cost: it’s not cheap, but it won’t break the bank. Beer, sake and wine are quite reasonably priced as well.
Noise level: it’s always a party there
Chance of walking in: not good. Try to go at off-hours.
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11.28.09
Posted in Asian, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Upper West Side, rated 6 to 6.5 at 16:51 by Dominique
311 Amsterdam Ave. & 75th St., 212-877-9300
great for: decent sushi on the UWS, cocktails
My friends D & A love the guacamole with spicy tuna and wasabi chips here. Unfortunately, they didn’t tell me that was the key dish before I came, so I was left to my own devices trying to pick the best things on the menu. I might return to try that with them, but the rest of the food was just decent. This is an upscale, trendy, sort-of-Asian place; if that’s your thing, you’ll like it. Otherwise, it’s overpriced and not bad for the Upper West Side, but I wouldn’t make the trek from downtown just for this. (There was a party nearby.)
Our two duck spring rolls to start were pretty good. So was my sashimi Fusha – not as amazing as I’d like, but certainly serviceable. The Dynamite, Lady Lobster, California and Volcano rolls were all good as well. My favorite part of the meal was the drinks. I was tired after a long day of auditioning and indulged in an espresso martini – I am not drinking for a while to lose weight, but I figure caffeine counteracts alcohol (shut up, it’s true if I believe it) – and the Strawberry Fields cocktail is a nice tall glass of yummy. Literally.
We had slightly befuddled service but everything worked itself out in the end. It’s a good place to bring people before going out, and certainly if you want a decent meal in a fun atmosphere in a bit of a frat boy/stodgy area.
Rating: 6 / 10
Our cost: $150ish for 3 people eating, 4 people drinking
Noise level: fairly noisy
Chance of walking in: decent.
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09.17.09
Posted in Hell's Kitchen (Clinton), Japanese, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5, small plates at 17:17 by Dominique
251 W.55th St. & 8th Ave./Broadway, 2nd floor, 212-245-4555
Great for: skewers, kara age, sake
After a busy day I had an hour to grab dinner in the area. I picked this place out of my trusty Blackberry list, and also because I’d heard there’s a formidable woman in the kitchen. I like to support the girls, you know? Especially in the closed, mostly male Japanese chef world.
I got a bunch of skewers, of course. The scallions were the most flavorful part of the negima chicken thigh, while the Berkshire pork with ponzu sauce held its own against them. I wasn’t a fan of the rubbery fat but I still liked it. The big scallop was pretty good; there was a bit too much oil, so maybe the option with soy sauce instead of salt and pepper would have been better.
My favorite was the harami skirt steak skewer. Tender, flavorful and drenched in sauce, I would definitely order it again. I also loved the jidori kara age. They were big mini drumsticks that still felt light (as opposed to greasy). I wished for a dipping sauce, though.
The restaurant manages to provide nice service while being quite busy. You can watch them grill everything, and the giant yakitori and sake lists have some unique offerings. It’s daintily and prettily decorated. I found the non-skewer menu expensive, although it’s probably reasonable for the theatre district area, so I was the glad the sticks were pretty reasonably priced.
Rating: 7 / 10
My cost: $30
Noise level: not too bad for the number of people
Chance of walking in: not good.
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08.29.09
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 23:50 by Dominique
152 W.49th St. & 7th Ave., 212-764-8549
Great for: pre-theatre dining, izakaya food, sharing with a small group
Snowboarding Guy had an irresistible proposition one day – dinner and In the Heights (fantastic, I definitely recommend it). It was perfect timing to get a table, as they get jammed really quickly but around 6pm isn’t too bad. The line starts around 6:15, S said. I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Japan yet, so I can’t tell you if this is a proper, authentic izakaya. I can, however, assure you that if the proper ones are anything like this they must be absolutely delightful. Basically, izakayas serve a lot of small dishes along with sakes and beers, and are traditionally for businessmen to unwind after work.
We started with some lovely yellowtail sashimi and went a little crazy with the skewers. I wasn’t feeling very adventurous so we just got chicken, duck, pork belly, asparagus wrapped in bacon, shrimp and one other. They were all quite good. I did not enjoy trying to de-shell the giant shrimp on its stick though. I fell in love with the mentai pasta, which has cod roe and creamy sauce mixed on top; so much so that I think I will try to make it at home. It sounds odd but is really good. The saltiness and texture of the roe are a great contrast to the smooth creaminess.
I also surprised myself liking the soup with salmon and pickled stuff over rice. So simple, yet so delicious. It wasn’t that big, though, so we ordered a tempura shrimp skewer. This was much better than the regular shrimp skewer, mainly because I didn’t have to deal with a shell and it had spicy mayo. We also got delicious gyoza filled with Berkshire pork (is there anything Berkshire pork doesn’t augment?) and perfectly crispy, juicy kara age. I think Japanese-style might be my favorite kind of fried chicken.Obviously I love Southern, and the Korean marriage of crisp and saucy, but the Japanese have figured out how to pack a lot of crunch and flavor into very little breading and oil. At least it seems to have not much oil.
The waiters are very busy, but do their best. They don’t rush you either, which is especially nice considering how popular the place is. They have many rare foods, like natto, and interesting little cocktails – SG got some kind of fruit + beer mixture that was actually quite good – plus there are some private booths too. I cannot tolerate waiting, so I will always try to go around 6, but it’s lively any time and I certainly want to come back.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $85 (one fruit beer)
Noise level: kind of loud
Chance of walking in: not good. The line starts around 6:15pm.
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04.02.09
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 17:06 by Dominique
252 Broome & Orchard/Ludlow Sts., 212-979-0989
Great for: special rolls, tuna amazing roll, good sushi near Chinatown
My snowboarding friend M (from the Fat Hippo post) ended up asking me out. Something about shared thrills, I guess. :)
He loves Jin and I live practically next door to it, so it was the obvious choice one cold Monday. To start, we got the mini Japanese pizza, salmon slices, spicy sauce and jalapeño on a rice cake, which was enjoyable though I’d have liked a smaller rice cake. It was a bit hard to share because they just cut the rice and then draped the salmon on top, but that gave me a good excuse to “accidentally” take extra sashimi.
The tuna amazing roll is everything its name suggests. It’s a fantastic concoction of spicy tuna, white tuna tempura, black pepper tuna, avocado and scallion that I can only describe as genius. The black pepper, especially, lifts it considerably above ordinary. The tempura somehow integrates seamlessly – the whole thing just goes together wonderfully. We kind of wanted to order another one but the waiter told us about a special tuna and yellowtail jalapeño roll that sounded great, and was. I could have done with less avocado but then I always can. I didn’t mind it, actually; I think it helped balance the spiciness of the peppers. All the special rolls are generously sized and come eight pieces each, so we just got one more little thing. The agedashi tofu with bonito flakes and scallions was super hot; the outside nice, though the inside needed a bit of flavor.
I’ve been here a couple other times, too. The regular rolls are fine, not as big or delicious as the specials. I like their selection of sakes; fiscally reasonable as well as tasty. The staff are actually Chinese, but attentive and nice. I think they did a good job with the décor, the music is always chill and fun and it’s rarely crowded. Plus it’s open until 12 on Fridays and Saturdays (as of April 2009). They’re definitely getting another visit soon.
Rating: 7.5 / 10
Our cost: $55 (1 tall beer, 2 apps, 2 special rolls)
Noise level: good
Chance of walking in: not too bad.
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02.18.09
Posted in Asian, East Village, Japanese, New York City Reviews, small plates at 04:44 by Dominique
243 E.14th St. & 2nd/3rd Ave., 212-253-7670 (now closed – Lesly is turning it into a Mexican place, sadly)
Great for: trying lots of inventive yakitori, dates (the booths are cozy), having a grown-up drink in a mostly-student area
Mr. Jones keeps a low profile; the door is almost as hard to find as when it was hidden behind plywood. I was lucky enough to go as Bar Owner’s guest during Friends & Family, when it was already very good. I was back for my birthday in February; they’ve improved the food from its already high level and added a large cocktail menu. (Full disclosure: I happen to know Lesly, the owner, a bit through a friend.) The prices are surprisingly reasonable for the quality of the ingredients. If you go with a large party, they can do a very decent omakase from $30 (!) per person.
Bar Owner & I started with daikon and chilies salad sprinkled with black sesame seeds. There were a generous number of square daikon logs and I actually liked it a lot. I’m not a fan of radish, so that’s saying a lot. Our first yakitori was four skewers of Wagyu harami separated by sliced leeks and garnished with fresh wasabi. I didn’t even mind the mushroomy flavor, they were that tasty. The kara yuzu, chicken with spicy yuzu sauce, were small, exceedingly spicy skewers. Also a success. The BLT yakitori was cute. It was peppered bacon plus a big, cooked cherry tomato on a small bed of lettuce. I was persuaded to be brave and try it and I’m glad I did! I think I hate whole tomatoes for their nasty pulpy texture but that problem is gone here since it’s cooked. Plus, the bacony goodness covers the tomato taste, which basically just adds juice.
The ton toro wasabi shiso, Berkshire black hog belly with fresh wasabi & shiso, was miraculously not fatty; instead crispy, juicy and succulent. I guess hogs get more exercise than pigs. The calamari (ira tempura) in spicy mayo came in big crunchy pieces and were delicious, tender enough to distract from the knowledge that I was eating squid. Next up were the tori tatsuta age, chicken wings with daikon paste, They were fantastic – juicy, basically chicken meatballs with actual meat held together by bread (not ground up) around tiny bones. I could have eaten at least twenty more.
From the big dish section we got the escolar goma ponzu, Hawaiian walu with black sesame and citrus sauce. I was surprised to adore the sauce, which sounded like it’d taste weird. Walu is a white fish; they made the top crunchy and the flesh a bit too firm but the center was perfect. Our second one was still a tad overcooked but less so. It might have been because the fish came in a giant tofu-looking thick slab. It was still really good. We’d ordered the lamb chops but the kitchen ran out of them, so we contented ourselves with the Kobe meatballs with foie gras centers. They were very juicy with a crunchy outside and much improved the second time I had them. They’re not over the top, just delicious and subtly decadent.
Mr. Jones has an extensive sake and shochu list, as well as lots of delicious cocktails. Try them all, every one that my birthday table of 13 people ordered we enjoyed. I liked the pretty model/waitresses in brown dresses and the really cool mod-ish (’60s, ’70s) décor. The very warm yellow and orange light was a nice touch, as was the spacious setup. The tables aren’t squeezed together as so frequently happens with East Village restos and there is plenty of room to stand at or around the bar in front. There are also comfy curvy couches in the back dining room, presumably for bar overflow. Try to get one of the cozy, circular, corner booths near the fireplace in back. It’s not just great food – you can eat dinner and then have your friends come hang out at the bar, which is exactly what I did for my birthday. It feels welcoming and upscale at the same time.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
No cost first time. My birthday cost: $80/person, but that’s 13 $30 omakases split 12 ways with a lot of heavy drinkers
Noise level: you may need your outside/club voice, but it’s fun
Chance of walking in: it’s pretty packed even on off nights with inclement weather.
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01.07.09
Posted in Asian, Chelsea, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 15:18 by Dominique
185 7th Ave. & 21st St., 212-989-4466; 427 Amsterdam & 80/81st Sts., 212-580-0007
Great for: tuna usuzukuri, elegant dining in Chelsea (I haven’t tried the UWS one yet)
I have been meaning to come here for about four years, and somehow I’m always in the area during the late afternoon when they’re closed. This time I was going to a shopping thing around dinnertime so I finally got to cross it off. Well, not literally, since I liked it, but I moved it from “should try” to “proven good.”
My appetizer choice of tuna usuzukuri turned out to be inspired. It’s a really big plate of slightly seared tuna slices, jalapeño, cilantro, yellow tobiko, wasabi mayo, tomatoes and crunchy bits. Everything goes together so well. I ate every last bite, even the tomatoes, and could have had more. It wasn’t too spicy for me; I liked the contrast of crunchy vegetables and tobiko with the soft tuna.
I was in a noodley mood that day, I guess (I had ramen at Tsushima a few hours beforehand), and went for the tempura soba. I ended up regretting the choice a bit, for reasons unrelated to the cooking. The tempura were two shrimp, yam, eggplant and squash. I don’t like any of those except shrimp. And the three kinds of mushroom – string, wood ear and regular – were lost on me as they are the food I hate most. The rest was really good though. There were a couple spinach leaves I could eat. I even enjoyed the fluorescent green pickles slices on the side but only cold, as I discovered after attempting to add them to the soup. There was a satisfyingly large amount of soba, which tasted the same as usual noodles. I’m not sure if that’s a good or bad thing, but I liked it. There wasn’t an overabundance of broth either.
I found the service very friendly. The many waiters wore all black and were quiet like ninjas, albeit super cheerful ninjas. They didn’t bother me much as I sat alone reading my Economist but were unfailingly quick and attentive, especially considering it was 7 pm on a busy Wednesday. The large space extends quite far back and was packed when I left. I liked the nice grey-streaked marble that was the sushi bar as well as the airy minimalist design and blond and dark wood with cool white accents. There was an interesting sculpture behind the sushi chefs that reminded me of a Jenga game. I was surprised at how little the place echoed, since the ceilings are high and wooden-looking and I didn’t notice any carpeting. Overall, a very pleasant experience.
Rating: 7.5 / 10
My cost: $30 (no drinks)
Noise level: not bad, despite high ceilings
Chance of walking in: low.
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