12.26.10
Posted in fusion, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, SoHo at 22:07 by Dominique
210 Elizabeth near Prince St., 212-343-7011
Great for: anchovies, lamb sirloin, sophisticated dining, brunch
In the spirit of adventure, I reconnected with the Music Exec from last year. We meant to go to Balaboosta, but I stupidly didn’t make reservations and they had a 45-minute wait. So we wandered over to Public and I’m glad I got to try their dinner. I fondly remember brunch here three years ago.
We started with a random appetizer of marinated white anchovies, which turned out to be really good. I liked the combination of greens, onions and fish. Anchovies are unfairly maligned – they needn’t be horrid and brown and canned. They can be lovely just like anything else.
I loved my roast lamb sirloin on crispy goat cheese polenta with saffron-braised baby vegetables and harissa aïoli. It’s a good thing it’s quite a small dish, since the lamb is very rich. The flavors went together well, the sauce was perfect, and the polenta was interesting and delicious. His grilled swordfish with wheatberry couscous, baba ghanoush & minted courgettes (eggplant) was surprisingly good considering how much I dislike most of those things. Swordfish tends to be tough, but here it was fairly tender and its flavor really came through.
I was trying to stick to my ascetic diet but when he saw my eyes light up at the description, ME persuaded me to get the sticky toffee pudding with Armagnac ice cream and hot caramel sauce. I’m so glad – I’ve loved sticky toffee pudding since I discovered it at Schiller’s. It is ridiculously decadent despite being a sort of fruitcake (it’s made of figs, go figure). And totally worth it. They do it really well here; it was desirable from first to last bite.
Service is as fitting as the décor. The place is what I think of as classic New York, with a clean minimalist look, bright enough to see but dim enough to be romantic. It definitely stays on my list.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $165 (3 glasses wine, 1.5 bottles water, 1 app, 2 mains, 1 dessert)
Noise level: convivial hum
Chance of walking in: it’s really big so you have an okay chance.
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09.19.08
Posted in Flatiron, Gramercy, Mediterranean, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5 at 16:56 by Dominique
35 W.20th St. & 5th/6th Aves., 212-463-7890
Great for: introduction to Greek food, a nice quiet date
I was too stressed out to pick a restaurant, so Midtown Hedge Funder said he’d give me a shortlist and I could pick from there. The sheer number of restaurants in Manhattan is quite overwhelming. Narrowing it down to five or so for a given night is the best balance between overabundance of choice and the guy surprising me with a place I’ve already reviewed or been to and hated (I’m pointing the finger of shame at you, Rayuela, The Smith and Peasant).
MHF had a strawberry champagne cocktail waiting for me when I sprinted in 15 minutes late. I promptly spilled some of it on him. Thankfully, everyone was very kind about getting me to the table without further mishap. For apps we tried the keftekadia saltsa, Greek meatballs stewed in tomato sauce, which were five small crumbly bundles of tastiness and abundant sauce. The calamari was good as well. It came in crispy, small rings with a yummy dipping sauce and a nice salad. We cleaned both plates.
MHF’s lavraki plaki (striped bass) baked with tomatoes, vegetables and garlic could have been cooked less. We both liked it but he felt the spice overpowered the flavor while it wasn’t spicy for me. My kouneli stifado, rabbit stewed in tomato with red wine and pearl onions, was absolutely delicious. I was puzzled to find the rabbit on its bone though. Other than at Falai, I’ve never seen a rabbit dish with any bones. The meat was soft and very similar to chicken, though more tender. I really liked the sauce and there was enough of it for once.
Our half bottle of retsina Malamatina was sour but pretty good. The waitress was nice and helpful. Interestingly, though this is a supposed to be a Greek place, they played all bellydance and Arabic music. Plus the menu seemed kind of Mediteranean/Mideastern, not specifically Greek. I don’t know much about Greek food though. I liked it, and if you’ve not had much Greek food either, I think this is a lovely introduction.
Rating: 7.5
Our cost: $115 ($16 1/2 bottle of retsina)
Noise level: quiet
Chance of walking in: good.
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02.19.08
Posted in African, Lower East Side, Mediterranean, New York City, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5 at 19:19 by Dominique
85 Orchard & Broome/Grand St., 212-991-9880 (now closed)
Great for: cozy dining, an easy introduction to French North African food, teetotalers
The Boyfriend and I were wandering around the Lower East Side in the rain quite late one Saturday night and this place looked yummy and warm. Luckily for us, it was. It’s close to the corner of what seems to be all one old building at Orchard and Broome – we subsequently went to the two restaurants next to it and noticed the same wavy brick ceiling (and same building number). It looks like how children draw waves, except upside down and executed in brick; I suppose that’s how the first settlers in the area got the ceiling to stay up without many supporting columns. They’ve done it up beautifully in harem style, with lots of pillows, Moroccan-looking sconces and inlaid mosaic tables. It is BYOB, though, because it’s pretty new, so bring your own liquor.
We started with the walnut, pear and goat cheese salad with vinaigrette and the shrimp ajja in tomato cumin sauce with a poached egg on top. The salad was sweet but good, with the flavors nicely balanced. I loved the shrimp, which was so tasty I actually used some bread to mop up the remaining sauce. Something about poached eggs is very complimentary to dishes like that – I think the richness of the yolk brings out the spices.
Next I had the vegetable couscous with chicken, lamb and merguez sausage. The vegetables include zucchini, cabbage, onion, carrot, chickpea and pumpkin (which I asked them not to put in). Everything comes in large chunks, and I found the broth on the side essential to the dish’s tastiness. It’s a subtle, fresh flavor that took a bit of getting used to but was enjoyable. I’d say it’s only for hearty appetites, unless you get the couscous by itself.
The Boyfriend’s seafood risotto with tiger shrimp, calamari, scallops and mussels in tiger shrimp saffron sauce was fantastic. The seafood was wonderfully fresh and the sauce was creamy and delicious without being too rich. The garlickiness worked really well with the other flavors too. Definitely the best thing we had.
We wrapped up with a delectable chocolate mousse cheesecake that we couldn’t stop eating. It was a wonderful meal all around. Our waitress was very friendly (and hot) and the place just gave us a warm fuzzy feeling. Even with about 350 restaurants on my list to try, I want to come here again soon.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $80 (no drinks, BYOB)
Noise level: subdued hum
Chance of walking in: medium, depending on night
I was very excited to discover that Elyssa Dido linked to my review on their own website! (Scroll down a bit.) But very sad to see that they’ve closed (January 2009). Damn the bad economy.
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