02.22.10
Posted in Asian, Greenwich Village, Japanese, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 6 to 6.5, small plates at 23:56 by Dominique
11 Barrow St. & W.4th St., 212-675-7775
Great for: interesting little plates
I was supposed to audition for this show in the far West Village. They said I should watch it first to be sure I wasn’t offended by the religious mocking. I knew I wouldn’t be, but it’s always nice to see a free show. Except this one. The singing sucked ass, the story made no sense, and if the people had got up on stage and masturbated it would have been far less solipsistic and annoying. In any case, we ran away as soon as the show ended, to a place with redeeming qualities.
We both got the chashu ramen. A simple broth with just noodles, scallions, very thin pork slices and and radish bits, it’s pretty good. I give them props for doing something simply and well. $14 is a little expensive for what it is, though. We got more mileage out of the bottle of organic Sho Chiku Bai Nama.
Our service was nice and the place seems quite popular. There are lots of interesting little plates I’d try in a more adventurous mood.
Rating: 6.5 / 10
Our cost: $55
Noise level: depends how drunk the other patrons are
Chance of walking in: not good.
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01.03.10
Posted in Asian, Lower East Side, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Southeast Asian, rated 6 to 6.5, small plates at 21:48 by Dominique
113 Ludlow & Rivington/Delancey, 212-353-8866
Great for: sharing lots of small dishes, easily impressed out-of-towners
One of my favorite girlfriends organized a girls’ night one Saturday. I’d been here before so I wasn’t too excited about the food, but fortunately her presence makes up for quite a lot. The last time I was here the company was also better than the food, which is only middling anyway, so it is not the place to take a foodie. Unless they like everything sweet.
We had to wait a very long while for the people at our reserved table to clear out, for which inconvenience we were given free edamame with lemon butter and salt. It was really good. It sustained me through our first dish of pickled vegetables, which was kind of like being tasered with a pickle. In my mind, even when a dish is “pickled [something],” it ought to still have some balance. I shouldn’t be fighting to keep my eyes open.
Fortunately the scallops with bacon, kalamansi and sake were much better. They also were a little sour, but a nice size and overall pretty tasty. So was the pork tonkatsu with watercress salad and lime butter. I found the meat a tad dry and the sauce a little sweet, while the lime butter was nice. I did not, of course, eat the mushrooms with baby bamboo, though the bamboo was decent.
The langoustines special in panko with wasabi tobiko aïoli was the best dish we had. The aïoli is addictive – the shellfish was good too. I enjoyed the sautéed Chinese sausage with super-hot Thai chili-lime sauce, which offset well the sweetness of the meat. The tofu with Thai basil and wood ear mushrooms in spicy soy mirin was not good. Too sweet, and just blah all around. I didn’t care for the seared ahi tuna in Thai chili-miso vinaigrette either.
We finished things off with the dessert tasting. The Thai chili chocolate ice cream (for an avowedly Filipino restaurant, they really like those Thai spices) was fine, as were the black plum sorbet and fried plantains. The lemongrass panna cotta was the best.
The service partly makes up for the mediocrity of the food. They are very attentive, and it was nice of them to mitigate the annoyance of waiting 45 minutes with unsolicited edamame. On the other hand, we were shocked to be charged corkage for our two bottles of sake; we tried to empirically figure out if that’s standard, and couldn’t remember details of past byob dinners well enough to come to a consensus, but basically it was surprising to be charged for twist-open bottles.
I can’t tell you why this place gets so much hype. Both visits I was in parties of 4 that ordered a good cross-section of the menu, and had an okay meal that rose to pretty good at best. I might have liked it better if I liked sweet flavors in food, and I think that might be a Filipino idiosyncrasy, but I am not a fan. Another annoyance is that everything is kind of expensive. Nothing is under $7, and most is considerably more. Not even the vegetarian dishes. Really? On the Lower East Side? The food definitely didn’t earn its price tags.
Rating: 6 / 10
Our cost: $130 (just food, they’re byob with small corkage fees)
Noise level: a bit noisy, not bad
Chance of walking in: not great. You can reserve for **parties of 4 or more.
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12.10.09
Posted in Flatiron, Latin, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 19:04 by Dominique
31 W.17th St. & 5th/6th Aves., 212-675-7223
Great for: dates, trying something new (and delicious)
I was supposed to go out with P ages ago but I broke my shoulder, and he was busy, then I was busy, and it just ended up happening six months later. I gave him a couple choices and Aldea emerged the winner, in more ways than one.
His appetizer of shrimp alhinho could have been cooked less, but it was nice, with smoky sauce and a generous four shrimp. Despite the presence of mushrooms I was delighted with the peas and bacon. And not just because I love bacon; the peas were tasty and firm, and all the flavors went together very well.
His arroz con pato was terrific. We loved the cracklings and chorizo, though not so much the apricot purée, and the duck was totally addictive. I would be so happy if the little Chinese restaurants near me would make fried rice this way! My Niman Ranch pork loin over corn and bacon with potato cubes was also great. There was lots of pork and something pickled that sharpened the taste of everything else. I liked how the meat was quite tender. It could maybe have come off the fire a tad earlier but overall it was really impressive. For once, I found the entrées better than the apps. It is usually the other way around.
To finish we got the strawberry tasting. I loved the mousse-like semifreddo and the sorbet. The black pepper biscuit was funny but actually quite nice with the strawberries & cream. I was very glad we ordered it.
The service tends toward the crazy attentive; they told us everything in every dish as it was set it down. Our waiter was very nice, patient and friendly while also leaving us alone enough. Plus the restaurant is decorated in the most tasteful blue and silver – it looks so carefully designed I was afraid to knock into things. If this is what Portuguese cuisine is like, I can’t wait to go to Lisbon. (Although my understanding is that this is more fusion than traditionally Portuguese.)
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $110
Noise level: low, especially upstairs, and the music is a good volume
Chance of walking in: probably not high. It’s delicious.
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09.17.09
Posted in Hell's Kitchen (Clinton), Japanese, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 7 to 7.5, small plates at 17:17 by Dominique
251 W.55th St. & 8th Ave./Broadway, 2nd floor, 212-245-4555
Great for: skewers, kara age, sake
After a busy day I had an hour to grab dinner in the area. I picked this place out of my trusty Blackberry list, and also because I’d heard there’s a formidable woman in the kitchen. I like to support the girls, you know? Especially in the closed, mostly male Japanese chef world.
I got a bunch of skewers, of course. The scallions were the most flavorful part of the negima chicken thigh, while the Berkshire pork with ponzu sauce held its own against them. I wasn’t a fan of the rubbery fat but I still liked it. The big scallop was pretty good; there was a bit too much oil, so maybe the option with soy sauce instead of salt and pepper would have been better.
My favorite was the harami skirt steak skewer. Tender, flavorful and drenched in sauce, I would definitely order it again. I also loved the jidori kara age. They were big mini drumsticks that still felt light (as opposed to greasy). I wished for a dipping sauce, though.
The restaurant manages to provide nice service while being quite busy. You can watch them grill everything, and the giant yakitori and sake lists have some unique offerings. It’s daintily and prettily decorated. I found the non-skewer menu expensive, although it’s probably reasonable for the theatre district area, so I was the glad the sticks were pretty reasonably priced.
Rating: 7 / 10
My cost: $30
Noise level: not too bad for the number of people
Chance of walking in: not good.
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08.29.09
Posted in Asian, Japanese, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 23:50 by Dominique
152 W.49th St. & 7th Ave., 212-764-8549
Great for: pre-theatre dining, izakaya food, sharing with a small group
Snowboarding Guy had an irresistible proposition one day – dinner and In the Heights (fantastic, I definitely recommend it). It was perfect timing to get a table, as they get jammed really quickly but around 6pm isn’t too bad. The line starts around 6:15, S said. I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Japan yet, so I can’t tell you if this is a proper, authentic izakaya. I can, however, assure you that if the proper ones are anything like this they must be absolutely delightful. Basically, izakayas serve a lot of small dishes along with sakes and beers, and are traditionally for businessmen to unwind after work.
We started with some lovely yellowtail sashimi and went a little crazy with the skewers. I wasn’t feeling very adventurous so we just got chicken, duck, pork belly, asparagus wrapped in bacon, shrimp and one other. They were all quite good. I did not enjoy trying to de-shell the giant shrimp on its stick though. I fell in love with the mentai pasta, which has cod roe and creamy sauce mixed on top; so much so that I think I will try to make it at home. It sounds odd but is really good. The saltiness and texture of the roe are a great contrast to the smooth creaminess.
I also surprised myself liking the soup with salmon and pickled stuff over rice. So simple, yet so delicious. It wasn’t that big, though, so we ordered a tempura shrimp skewer. This was much better than the regular shrimp skewer, mainly because I didn’t have to deal with a shell and it had spicy mayo. We also got delicious gyoza filled with Berkshire pork (is there anything Berkshire pork doesn’t augment?) and perfectly crispy, juicy kara age. I think Japanese-style might be my favorite kind of fried chicken.Obviously I love Southern, and the Korean marriage of crisp and saucy, but the Japanese have figured out how to pack a lot of crunch and flavor into very little breading and oil. At least it seems to have not much oil.
The waiters are very busy, but do their best. They don’t rush you either, which is especially nice considering how popular the place is. They have many rare foods, like natto, and interesting little cocktails – SG got some kind of fruit + beer mixture that was actually quite good – plus there are some private booths too. I cannot tolerate waiting, so I will always try to go around 6, but it’s lively any time and I certainly want to come back.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $85 (one fruit beer)
Noise level: kind of loud
Chance of walking in: not good. The line starts around 6:15pm.
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08.26.09
Posted in New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Spanish, West Village, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 01:03 by Dominique
64 W.10th St. & 6th/5th Ave., 212-505-7777
Great for: tapas, sangria, getting crazy with a large group of friends, hanging out at the bar, impressing out-of-towners, dates
Motorcycle Guy and I agreed on this place for our date, which turned out to be a really good decision because although I’d been here a while back, I hadn’t reviewed it, and it turned out to still be yummy enough that I actually want to write about it. (Sometimes I just can’t be bothered if a place is mediocre and obscure. And my palate has developed to the point where often what was once good is now disappointingly eh.)
The warm salad of artichokes and haricots verts with crème fraîche truffle dressing was a nice start. The lamb meatballs in spiced butternut squash foam, toasted sesame seeds and lebne (a dense yogurt cheese) were also lovely. The foam could have been better, but then I don’t like any form of squash.
The two best dishes – I really couldn’t pick between them – were the Brussels sprouts and scallops. The sprouts come with Granny Smith apples, crème fraîche and pistachios, which sounds strange, but that bit of sweetness sets off the rest of the flavors. I LOVED it. I also loved the three big butterflied, roasted scallops in artichoke purée and yuzu mayonnaise with salmon caviar. Tender, juicy and terrific, I only wished there were more (and an even number).
The yogurt-marinated lamb skewers with okra and eggplant in green leek sauce were a setback in an overall pleasant meal. I hated the vegetables, which were an unpleasant surprise, and the lamb was fine but a bit too sweet. Fortunately, the whole rack of Danish ribs roasted with kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) and coriander made up for that. Though they could have been moister, they were very satisfying.
We rounded out the meal with an absolutely scrumptious warm chocolate cake topped with coconut sorbet, passionfruit emulsion and chocolate rum sauce. It literally melted in our mouths. I found myself actually eating more than a few bites of it, despite not usually being a huge dessert fan.
It was fun sitting in the semi-secret back room that you can only reach through the kitchen. A bit sexier than the rest of the place, which is nice but loud and packed. The décor is a little cluttered, though still good for dates. Our waitress was attentive and helpful. I’m so glad the food hasn’t stopped being great. And if you’re there with a bunch of people, get the “whole shebang” – everything on the menu for $400. Did that once, it’s so worth it. Plus the sangria is killer.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $110 (1 drink)
Noise level: music at a good level, loud people, quiet back room
Chance of walking in: they’re very popular, so definitely call ahead.
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05.26.09
Posted in American, Latin, Midtown West, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 20:59 by Dominique
321 W.51st St. & 8th/9th Aves., 212-957-9338
Great for: sharing lots of interesting dishes, American food with a Latin twist, pre- or post-theatre
The Marketer knows the owners here and thought I might be able to give them some nice publicity. (I don’t think he understands the point of this blog. This is for straightforward reviews, without exception.) The eponymous Emily was indeed a sweet lady and I’m happy I can honestly recommend her restaurant. M and I had dinner plans elsewhere so we just had several small plates, but we tried a decently varied cross-section of the menu.
The Prince Edward Island mussels with tasso ham in tequila broth were very good. I’m not even a huge mussels fan. The broth doesn’t taste much of tequila, and there was lots of lovely diced ham, onions and small tomatoes as well as a generous number of mussels. The roasted jalapeño cheese poppers with creamy herb dip were great. There was just the right balance of everything, so that each popper was delicate and creamy without overpowering the peppers. The bacon mac and cheese croquette with smoky, spicy tomato dip was also terrific. It managed to be light and not too cheesy with nice big bacon crumbles.
We decided to leave room for our next dinner but couldn’t resist some dessert. M’s warm apple cake with caramel sauce and whipped cream turned out to be awesome despite its appleness. I wouldn’t order it myself, as I don’t really like apple desserts, but I’d definitely recommend it to anyone who does. My baked cheesecake empanada with strawberry sauce and more whipped cream was great. I found the cake a little spongy but the combination of ingredients was lovely.
The waiters are really nice and seem happy to be there. There are two dining rooms, although they’re not always both open, so it’s probably a good idea for large parties and walking in. I enjoyed the lights and décor, which made the place look inviting and upscale at the same time.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $45 (3 apps, 2 desserts)
Noise level: quiet
Chance of walking in: pretty good.
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05.10.09
Posted in Meatpacking District, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Spanish, rated 7 to 7.5, small plates at 00:32 by Dominique
405 W.14th St. & 9th/10th Aves., 212-366-1640
Great for: tapas, red snapper chicharrón, cocktails, people watching
Software Guy thoughtfully picked a restaurant I haven’t reviewed for our date. He also proved himself to be really thoughtful later when some jackass stole my phone and he helped me get it back even though it took 15 hours. (No, I’m not kidding.) Happily, the night started out well.
The almejas villa clara, littleneck clams in Hoegaarden beer and saffron broth with cilantro and garlic, were pretty good. I preferred the giant papitas rellenas filled with ground sirloin. Their accompanying tomato sauce was sour in a good way. The generous amount of chorizo in hot oil was also satisfying. The empanadillas with sautéed spinach and Manchego cheese are small and heavy, a good dish in small doses.
The lovely calamari were on a different level. Large but tender, they were also easy to bite through. The best was definitely the chicharrón de pargo, lightly breaded red snapper with tartar sauce. It came in nice big flaky chunks and I had a hard time not scooping up every last piece.
We tried several of the cocktails, all of which I can recommend. I think the guava jalapeño martini and bellito were the best. Our waiters were pretty attentive and it’s a fun place. It’s quite large, but I’ve never see it less than packed all the years it’s been open. Side note: we saw Jennifer Aniston and Jason Bateman filming their new movie outside on our way out!
Rating: 7 / 10
Our cost: $195
Noise level: loud
Chance of walking in: you should probably reserve.
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04.15.09
Posted in Midtown East, New York City Neighborhoods, New York City Reviews, Spanish, rated 8 to 8.5, small plates at 02:54 by Dominique
247 E.50th St. & 3rd/2nd Aves., 212-752-1414
Great for: sharing, live music, fun inexpensive dinner, dates
This was a very busy day for me. I was out the night before, and slept about an hour before taking off at 6am to snowboard. Around noon I caught an edge and flipped several times before landing on my shoulder and (fortunately helmeted) head. We had to go back to Manhattan so I could see a doctor without paying a fortune. Turned out my clavicle was broken in three totally displaced pieces. The doctor actually said as he showed me the x ray, “So this is pretty bad…”
- I think he was understating it, actually.
But I’d had enough hydrocodone, Percocet and Vicodin that I wasn’t crying any more and I made it to my dear friend Dominique’s birthday dinner in acceptable time.
We started with a bunch of small plates. The trio of croquettas was great. I couldn’t decide which was my favorite among the pork, crab and cauliflower. They were all interesting combinations, though tiny. The empanadas with veal, roasted red pepper, currant and salsa verde were all right, not special. I liked the crisp thin outsides – unfortunately the insides didn’t quite measure up. Everyone except me loved the sweet and salty plantains with sea salt caramel, cilantro and crème fraîche. But then I hate plantains. I found them a little sweet though nice otherwise. The roasted fingerling potatoes with chipotle aioli were more my speed. We liked the tiny beef and pork meatballs, though they were a tad dry. Also, the tamarind-chipotle barbecue sauce was too sweet and abundant.
I think the best thing we ate was the crisp, small and tender calamari in five spice corn flour. The chipotle mayo sauce was great, the squid so well-executed it could have been fish! We definitely wanted more despite the generous size of the dish. Though the grilled shrimp and asparagus over rice with chorizo and creamy shallot vinaigrette was smaller than we thought it’d be, it was also very good, especially the sour note of the sauce contrasting with the cream.
P, our lone vegetarian, found the ensalada tropical with fruits, nuts and cheese sweet but refreshing. His special vegetarian plate was ok, but they pretty much brought the exact things we asked them not to. The flight of three ceviches is a good bet. The mango snapper was tiny and all right; I liked the decent amount of tuna better, and the salmon, though a bit sour, the best.
We loved the rich Grand Marnier chocolate cake with vanilla anglaise and raspberry sauce. They even put a candle in it for Dominique, and the two members of the Gipsy Kings performing in the front sang her happy birthday! Apparently they have live music here often. We enjoyed the El Besito cocktail with cava, strawberry and rose syrup so much we mainly just ordered that. The espumosos are good too.
Our waitress wasn’t the brightest bulb in the chandelier but she tried at least. The restaurant is quite big with two long rooms. I liked the lovely granite tabletops, minimalist décor and nice candlelit ambience. It would be great for a date and it was certainly fun for Dominique’s party.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $350 for 6 people (5 small plates, 3 apps, ceviche flight, veg plate, 11 cocktails)
Noise level: the live music was loud but it rocked
Chance of walking in: not too bad.
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02.18.09
Posted in Asian, East Village, Japanese, New York City Reviews, small plates at 04:44 by Dominique
243 E.14th St. & 2nd/3rd Ave., 212-253-7670 (now closed – Lesly is turning it into a Mexican place, sadly)
Great for: trying lots of inventive yakitori, dates (the booths are cozy), having a grown-up drink in a mostly-student area
Mr. Jones keeps a low profile; the door is almost as hard to find as when it was hidden behind plywood. I was lucky enough to go as Bar Owner’s guest during Friends & Family, when it was already very good. I was back for my birthday in February; they’ve improved the food from its already high level and added a large cocktail menu. (Full disclosure: I happen to know Lesly, the owner, a bit through a friend.) The prices are surprisingly reasonable for the quality of the ingredients. If you go with a large party, they can do a very decent omakase from $30 (!) per person.
Bar Owner & I started with daikon and chilies salad sprinkled with black sesame seeds. There were a generous number of square daikon logs and I actually liked it a lot. I’m not a fan of radish, so that’s saying a lot. Our first yakitori was four skewers of Wagyu harami separated by sliced leeks and garnished with fresh wasabi. I didn’t even mind the mushroomy flavor, they were that tasty. The kara yuzu, chicken with spicy yuzu sauce, were small, exceedingly spicy skewers. Also a success. The BLT yakitori was cute. It was peppered bacon plus a big, cooked cherry tomato on a small bed of lettuce. I was persuaded to be brave and try it and I’m glad I did! I think I hate whole tomatoes for their nasty pulpy texture but that problem is gone here since it’s cooked. Plus, the bacony goodness covers the tomato taste, which basically just adds juice.
The ton toro wasabi shiso, Berkshire black hog belly with fresh wasabi & shiso, was miraculously not fatty; instead crispy, juicy and succulent. I guess hogs get more exercise than pigs. The calamari (ira tempura) in spicy mayo came in big crunchy pieces and were delicious, tender enough to distract from the knowledge that I was eating squid. Next up were the tori tatsuta age, chicken wings with daikon paste, They were fantastic – juicy, basically chicken meatballs with actual meat held together by bread (not ground up) around tiny bones. I could have eaten at least twenty more.
From the big dish section we got the escolar goma ponzu, Hawaiian walu with black sesame and citrus sauce. I was surprised to adore the sauce, which sounded like it’d taste weird. Walu is a white fish; they made the top crunchy and the flesh a bit too firm but the center was perfect. Our second one was still a tad overcooked but less so. It might have been because the fish came in a giant tofu-looking thick slab. It was still really good. We’d ordered the lamb chops but the kitchen ran out of them, so we contented ourselves with the Kobe meatballs with foie gras centers. They were very juicy with a crunchy outside and much improved the second time I had them. They’re not over the top, just delicious and subtly decadent.
Mr. Jones has an extensive sake and shochu list, as well as lots of delicious cocktails. Try them all, every one that my birthday table of 13 people ordered we enjoyed. I liked the pretty model/waitresses in brown dresses and the really cool mod-ish (’60s, ’70s) décor. The very warm yellow and orange light was a nice touch, as was the spacious setup. The tables aren’t squeezed together as so frequently happens with East Village restos and there is plenty of room to stand at or around the bar in front. There are also comfy curvy couches in the back dining room, presumably for bar overflow. Try to get one of the cozy, circular, corner booths near the fireplace in back. It’s not just great food – you can eat dinner and then have your friends come hang out at the bar, which is exactly what I did for my birthday. It feels welcoming and upscale at the same time.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
No cost first time. My birthday cost: $80/person, but that’s 13 $30 omakases split 12 ways with a lot of heavy drinkers
Noise level: you may need your outside/club voice, but it’s fun
Chance of walking in: it’s pretty packed even on off nights with inclement weather.
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