02.19.08
Review of Elyssa Dido, Friday December 2007
85 Orchard & Broome/Grand St., 212-991-9880 (now closed)
Great for: cozy dining, an easy introduction to French North African food, teetotalers
The Boyfriend and I were wandering around the Lower East Side in the rain quite late one Saturday night and this place looked yummy and warm. Luckily for us, it was. It’s close to the corner of what seems to be all one old building at Orchard and Broome – we subsequently went to the two restaurants next to it and noticed the same wavy brick ceiling (and same building number). It looks like how children draw waves, except upside down and executed in brick; I suppose that’s how the first settlers in the area got the ceiling to stay up without many supporting columns. They’ve done it up beautifully in harem style, with lots of pillows, Moroccan-looking sconces and inlaid mosaic tables. It is BYOB, though, because it’s pretty new, so bring your own liquor.
We started with the walnut, pear and goat cheese salad with vinaigrette and the shrimp ajja in tomato cumin sauce with a poached egg on top. The salad was sweet but good, with the flavors nicely balanced. I loved the shrimp, which was so tasty I actually used some bread to mop up the remaining sauce. Something about poached eggs is very complimentary to dishes like that – I think the richness of the yolk brings out the spices.
Next I had the vegetable couscous with chicken, lamb and merguez sausage. The vegetables include zucchini, cabbage, onion, carrot, chickpea and pumpkin (which I asked them not to put in). Everything comes in large chunks, and I found the broth on the side essential to the dish’s tastiness. It’s a subtle, fresh flavor that took a bit of getting used to but was enjoyable. I’d say it’s only for hearty appetites, unless you get the couscous by itself.
The Boyfriend’s seafood risotto with tiger shrimp, calamari, scallops and mussels in tiger shrimp saffron sauce was fantastic. The seafood was wonderfully fresh and the sauce was creamy and delicious without being too rich. The garlickiness worked really well with the other flavors too. Definitely the best thing we had.
We wrapped up with a delectable chocolate mousse cheesecake that we couldn’t stop eating. It was a wonderful meal all around. Our waitress was very friendly (and hot) and the place just gave us a warm fuzzy feeling. Even with about 350 restaurants on my list to try, I want to come here again soon.
Rating: 8 / 10
Our cost: $80 (no drinks, BYOB)
Noise level: subdued hum
Chance of walking in: medium, depending on night
I was very excited to discover that Elyssa Dido linked to my review on their own website! (Scroll down a bit.) But very sad to see that they’ve closed (January 2009). Damn the bad economy.
