03.04.09
Review of Grotto, Wednesday & Friday January 2009
100 Forsyth & Broome/Grand, 212-625-3444
Great for: dates, specials, upscale Italian, live jazz, ambience
Every day when I walked home from the train I passed this place. I’d say to myself, I really ought to try that hideaway, but somehow I never remembered to put it on my list. Finally one night, the Boyfriend and I walked past it and I thought to go in. I am so glad. That week we went twice more, it was so good. It’s nowhere near as cheap as the dumpling places surrounding it but if you’ve got the money, it’s totally worth it. And you can always stick to the cheap pastas, appetizers and burger if money’s tight.
It’s always a good idea to try the specials, although everything I had from the menu was fantastic too. Of the apps, the carpaccio may have been my favorite, because it didn’t have anything I hate, but the other apps made me willing and happy to try tomatoes and and octopus. The lovely scamorza was a slick of melted smoked mozzarella with a strip of prosciutto next to garlic bruschetta and very fresh large tomatoes, to be assembled as you see fit. There was a generous amount of everything, too. The crostini are three bruschetta; one with mushrooms and red pepper, one with prosciutto and scallions, and the best with smoked mozzarella and marinara. They were fantastic texture and taste combinations. The prosciutto one could have used some sauce to help with the bread, though. I was brave one night and got the special grilled octopus with arugula, fingerling potatoes and sundried tomato aïoli in lemon vinaigrette. I wish it didn’t look so scary because the tender yet firm octopus was amazing. But the tentacles were longer than my (admittedly tiny) pinky! I loved the sauce and potato slices too. I just couldn’t forget that I was eating intelligent octopi – I almost tried blindfolding myself, it was that yummy. The caprese di bufala is not quite as stellar as the scamorza though the cheese is light and fluffy and the tomato wedges are smaller. The paper-thin slices of carpaccio are accompanied by arugula, capers, fried shallors, lemon-olive oil and love, or something equally magical, because I just can’t have enough of them.
The shrimp risotto had creamy, firm, chopped-up shrimp over al dente rice with just a hint of sourness for balance. The dainty quail risotto with asparagus is also great. I’ve twice had the tonnarelli alla carbonara with crumbles of pancetta, egg, cream and Parmesan and not been able to finish it either time, but it is a lot of fun trying. It’s quite heavy with creamy, cheesy sauce everywhere and a moat of grated Parm.
The burger, a steal at $15, comes with terrific fries and amazing chipotle mayo. It’s one of the few burgers I’ve had whose meat is tasty all on its own – they clearly do the marinating part well. And the mayo is addictive. You don’t need ketchup for the fries, you’ll be scraping the bottom of the little sauce bowl. The marinated NY strip steak topped with herb-tomato insalata was deliciously soft and it even made me like the very large accompanying tomato chunks. There were veins of fat on the sides but they were easily cut away. The lovely oven-roasted herb-infused halibut with fingerling potatoes, asparagus, and tomato in a lemon aïoli was a nice balance of flavors. The Berkshire black pork cutlet over roasted apples and mashed sweet potatoes in a red wine reduction was very sweet, which I normally hate, except it was so good. The onions alone are worth the price of admission.
The only dessert we ever had room for was the apple beignet with vanilla gelato. They were basically good apple pancakes with fantastic gelato. The cocktails are all very speakeasy and tasty. The Boyfriend, who barely drinks, ordered two hot toddys every time we came in: they pack quite a punch in the mouth, what with the Calvados, bourbon, allspice liqueur, and honey garnished with lemon (though the menu says orange) and cinnamon sticks. They’re perfect for the current weather or just for getting hammered without realizing it. I also enjoyed the Canton ginger smash, New York sour, lampone basilico and St. Gemainita. They were all interesting and not too sweet.
The first three times I sat at the same table served by the same pretty, friendly waitress. (Hi, Slavica!) Everyone else is very sociable as well, and though the drinks sometimes take a while, when you get them you’ll see they were worth the wait. It’s a really cool little grotto with lots of flowers and simple, tasteful décor. You can sit in what I call the date section or the noisier side with the live band on weekends. I’m shocked that this place has been open for four years and I never knew about it. But I’m making amends – I was just there yesterday again.
2010 update: it’s still terrific. They’ve changed the cocktail menu to equally tasty new concoctions.
Rating: 9 / 10
Our cost: the entrées are quite expensive, but you’ll want so many of the other things that it might end up being pricey even if you just get pasta and apps, which average around $15 each. Cocktails are $10-11, secondi $15 (burger) – $32.
Noise level: sometimes live jazz, usually quietly romantic
Chance of walking in: not bad especially on weekdays.
