04.09.09
Review of Hill Country, lunch Tuesday March 2009
30 W.26th St. & 5th/6th Aves., 212-255-4544
Great for: brisket, mac & cheese, sausage, corn casserole
I was wandering in the area one day and meant to go home for lunch except I happened to see Hill Country first. And being the carnivore I am, I had to stop and see if it was worth all the fuss. It is, but the quality doesn’t come cheap. And I don’t know much about barbecue besides “this tastes good” so I won’t get into the whole authenticity debate.
I got three slices of the brisket, as I’d heard it’s a can’t-miss. I opted for lean, though; a girl’s gotta stay slender in New York. I think that’s why I found it tender but not as moist as could be desired. I liked how big the slices were, too. The two pork ribs matched them in size and had lots of fat and lovely black pepper outside. The meat was so soft it almost fell off the bone by itself, but I found the fat distracting. I tried not to overorder and got just one delicious jalapeño and cheese sausage in addition. I wanted to try the regular kind as well, until I saw they are fit for giants. They’re also fit for picky eaters, as I found hardly any filler stuff and they were bursting with juicy goodness.
I got to try three sides for the price of one large mac and cheese (it wasn’t busy, and I charmed one of the pitmasters). I can see why the mac and cheese is a favorite. The long pointy penne and creamy cheesiness are delightful and I actually devoured the little cup of it before the meat! Once I started I couldn’t stop. The green bean casserole was pretty good but I found the beans too crunchy and the mushrooms too large. I don’t think there was any ham in it either. I loved the corn casserole/pudding. The cornbread was not bland as so often happens, while the corn held its own, texturally.
I think the footpedal-operated sinks outside the bathrooms are a good idea. The waiters and all the guys behind the counters were very nice, although it was a rainy weekday midafternoon and they may just have been glad to see a customer. The meats are sold by the pound, while the sides are priced per big or little cup. It does add up quickly; the meats aren’t cheap. But I really liked the place and it was definitely enough food to keep me happy until dinnertime.
Rating: 7.5 / 10
My cost: $28
Noise level: raucous party at peak times I’m sure
Chance of walking in: it’s like an enormous barn, so you’re probably fairly safe to get a seat soon.
