05.02.08
Review of La Boite En Bois, Thursday March 2008
75 W. 68th St. & Columbus/Central Park West, 212-874-2705
Great for: fast and well-executed pre-theatre French
I was taking the Boyfriend to his first opera, Madama Butterfly, and we both managed to get out of work quickly enough to make 7 o’clock reservations at this nearby bistro. The three-course prix fixe is very reasonably set at $36, in terms of price, quality of food and speed of service.
The bread to start was great. My sausage of duck (I think, not sure) with lentils, carrots, onions, tomatoes and chives was tasty. I found the accompanying mustard a bit harsh, but very much enjoyed the way the other flavors melded together. His carrot celery soup was great, just the thing for a nippy early March night.
I also liked my cod fish with roasted onions, julienned carrots and zucchini with garlic mashed potatoes. The fish was fresh and subtly flavored, and the sauce was delicious. His veal scaloppini in mushroom cognac sauce with the same carrots, zucchini and potatoes was similarly well done. I would recommend it for a mushroom lover, and even for someone who hates mushrooms as I do. The sauce was a bit strong for my taste, though. Our vegetables were great. I found myself actually liking the zucchini, which rarely happens. We both loved the mashed potatoes as well.
The ricotta cheesecake with strawberries and frozen praline mousse were a lovely finish to a good meal. We found them light and a nice sweet contrast to the savory courses before them. After a precautionary espresso each, we were on our way. We made it to our seats just before the curtain – in and out of the restaurant in 50 minutes. Quite impressive.
The waitstaff were a bit rushed, understandably so since it was pre-theatre time, but were courteous and friendly and did their best to be attentive. It’s a cute little basement place; definitely a good alternative to the always-busy Café Fiorello across from Lincoln Square.
Rating: 7.5 / 10
Our cost: $105 (teetotaling)
Noise level: pre-theatre hum
Chance of walking in: low to medium before a show.
