09.03.08
Review of Morimoto, Tuesday July 2008
88 10th Ave. & 15th/16th, 212-989-8883
Great for: omakase, toro, sakephiles, design enthusiasts
Commodities Broker had had a terrific day in the markets, and I was stressed out mid-acting program, hence an 8-course omakase splurge one night at Stephen Starr‘s giant Philadelphia import. CB’s also fun to dine with because he likes to drink even more than I do.
I saw a couple things I wanted to substitute on the tasting menu, but was convinced to give them a chance. I even tried CB’s special appetizer of hydroponic tomato salad with onion, soy, and shiso. It was really fresh and juicy – I’d love it if I could stand tomatoes outside of sauce. The onions were also raw but didn’t hurt too much, to my relief. Sometimes raw onions can pack a wallop like straight wasabi.
The most elaborate toro tartare I’ve ever seen was up next. It came with osetra caviar, crème fraîche, wasabi, dashi-soy, chives, avocado paste and tiny rice cracker croutons. The lovely soft toro itself came in a shallow square dish with a dainty silver scraper. Be careful with the super spicy wasabi. The whole thing was delicious artwork. An itty-bitty raspberry-sized yamamomo peach waited on the side as a palate cleanser after we destroyed the pretty sculpture.
The sashimi course consisted of beautiful thin strips of amadai (a Japanese tilefish, seared slightly) and yellowtail with ginger and different varieties of soy sauce on small green leaves. It was great though the yellowtail was a little chewier than I expected. I especially loved the oil – sesame, maybe? – it all came in.
The watercress salad with seared sockeye salmon sashimi and mild jalapeño sauce was pretty good. The sauce reminded me of relish, and the vinaigrette was delicious. I was bit disappointed when I realized the salmon was not spicy; even a little bland, in fact. But combined with everything it was a good dish. Don’t eat the random line of sauce or whatever it is, it’s nasty and bitter.
The next course was a tasting of two of their star dishes, the market oysters and the foie gras chawan mushi. The two oysters came with foie gras and uni in teriyaki sauce, which really helped me get mine down. Everything was soft and slimy but actually good. The two dainty little cups of foie gras chawan mushi with egg and heavy cream tasted like meaty, foie-gras-infused custard. They weren’t as heavy as you’d think.
The nigiri plate came with cockle clam, kanpachi (amberjack yellowtail) with sweet ikura (salmon roe), snapper, beltfish with yellow tobiko and chutoro. All of it was very fresh and lovely. The slightly rubbery clam was sliced so thin it turned out very well. The beltfish was rubbery and scary but a bit spicy and still pretty good. The chutoro was like seared butter made of meat. I was surprised all the exotics didn’t put me off – I remember when I had the omakase at Blue Ribbon and really didn’t like any of the rarer sushi. I guess that means they have better quality fish here.
It was now time for a palate cleanser before the main course of Korean green tea and a red bean macaroon. The tea came in powder form that the waiter mixed into water with a whisk for us. The presentation was over the top but it was really good.
All the fanfare was for flash-fried Kobe beef on sweet Japanese yams and a half lobster épice with garam masala, lemon crème fraîche and alfalfa sprouts. The soft lovely beef was folded over in thin slices, but there wasn’t much of it and it was quite tendon-filled. I found the yams super sweet, maybe from the sauce. I really liked the dish but it could have been any steak. I loved the lobster without reservation. The bitter alfalfa and meringue-like crème fraîche was a good contrast to the succulent, tender, spicy lobster. CB didn’t love it as much but he doesn’t enjoy Indian food. I thought the garam masala was the best part of an excellent dish.
We finished up with a sweet potato cake with red bean center and brown sugar ice cream accompanied by red bean compote. It was pretty good; the cake was not that sweet. I would have eaten a bowl of the ice cream, though all the red beans didn’t add much to the dish. I don’t understand the Asian obsession with red beans – they’re crumbly in a bad way and neither sweet nor savory. They’re like blah soft sand. Anyway, the wonderful ice cream made up for all that.
We tried all three levels of Morimoto sake – ginjo, daiginjo and junmai ginjo. The first, caramelized pear aromas with a ripe stone fruit finish, was smooth and not too strong, dry but still hearty. The daiginjo had melon and honeysuckle fragrances and was also yummy. The Shichi Ken (Seven Swords) Yamanashi, with a custardy richness & sweet rice aroma, was extremely smooth. It was like drinking vodka straight without having to make that “eeeee” face.
Our waiter was wonderful and cute, and patient with all my questions. He was knowledgeable yet not afraid to pull out the cue card. He advised us well on the sake too. I liked how he made sure we were done with every dish before taking it. I found his service very caring, as though he was personally invested.
The whole place is outfitted in crazy finished concrete with very mod curvy furniture in blond wood. There’s a huge glass water bottle wall, all lit up like a giant Lite Brite. The translucent plastic swirl chopsticks were pretty and functional; the folded white cloth ceiling was just pretty. They had the same cool Neorest toilets as at Megu Midtown, with fewer bells and whistles but still awesome. A tip, in case you get confused or you’re a little too drunk; slide the restroom doors, don’t push/pull.
Overall, it was an enormous amount of food, most of which was done extremely well. I was really impressed. I can’t wait until I get to come back again.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $535 (8-course omakase $120, 1 big $75 & 2 small $42 & $31 bottles sake)
Noise level: not too bad.
Chance of walking in: low.
Shochu - a blog with hangover » Review of Morimoto, Tuesday July 2008 said,
October 22, 2008 at 22:42
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