04.21.09
Review of Peter Luger, lunch Tuesday April 2009
178 Broadway & Driggs, 718-387-7400
Great for: bacon, spinach, fries and the porterhouse of course
My poor broken clavicle required titanium to reassemble. I went home for a week after surgery to recover without imposing on my friends, and actually healed very well after an excruciating first few days, so by the time I got back to Manhattan I was totally ready to go out again. (My family is mostly nice but I’m pretty much set after three days with them.)
My English Ex came here two years ago and said the bacon was the only thing worth getting. He was right about its scrumptiousness, but they have clearly stepped up their game because everything else was fantastic too. The bacon comes in thick giant slices, $2 a pop, grilled and charred and marinated or smoked or something to the point that you can’t tell where the meat leaves off and the fat begins. Which is great, because then I can eat all of it. Just one slice is surprisingly satisfying; if I didn’t know myself better I’d say I could just have a few slices and be full.
The classic porterhouse for two was buttery delicious goodness. I definitely would not recommend eating here often, unless you’re trying to induce a heart attack, but it was so good I’d almost say what the hell, it’s worth it. In case you’ve never had the pleasure here or at one of the recent Luger offshoots, porterhouse for two is a giant slab of T-bone plus filet mignon that is cooked in the plate in a small lake of butter. It’s sliced in great big hunks so you can still cut it yourself, but don’t have to deal with carving it off the bones. Some of my first piece was a little too charred but every one thereafter was a great balance of chewy and soft flavor.
The creamed spinach is terrific. They somehow make it mostly spinach – I barely even saw cream – and yet it was soft and practically a steak sauce. Speaking of which, their house sauce is very good. I can’t remember the last steakhouse I went to where I liked the house blend at all, but this one was good on everything. Their fries are giant and delicious too. If you can possibly cram them in you should try.
I enjoyed our $32 half-bottle of Beaulieu Valley Rutherford, which came out to about four small glasses. The only disappointment in the meal was the decaf coffee, which my friend said tasted “like dirt.” My regular coffee was nothing special but at least not silica-based. I’ve heard from many people that Luger’s has been falling off lately, but maybe the economy has spurred them to recapture their former glory. This was truly one of the best steaks I’ve had in my life.
Rating: 9 / 10
Our cost: $200 (1 half-bottle of wine, 2 sides, 2 coffees)
Noise level: not very loud
Chance of walking in: doubtful. Don’t forget to bring cash, unless you have their credit card.
Bess said,
April 27, 2009 at 17:58
Well written article.