12.31.08
Review of Sonia Rose, Thursday October 2008
74 Orchard & Broome Sts., 212-260-5317
Great for: everyone, salmon lovers, romance
My friend A and I planned a proper dinner this time. I wanted to come here before they stopped doing introductory pricing – $20.08 three-course prix fixe! – at the end of the month. Every time I walked by it looked irresistibly charming inside; it lives up to its appearance.
We were lucky enough to be seated upstairs. Even the bread was great. It looks like cornbread but is white, fluffy and hard outside. I was persuaded to eat it because of the delicious cherry and jalapeño butters. The amuse bouche, little airy bread halves, was also scrumptious. It looked like a teeny tiny slider with garlic butter and spinach inside.
Both of us got the seafood corn bisque with “gems of the sea,” which was creamy, smoky and a bit sweet. It might have been cream of mushroom, I wasn’t sure. They were generous with the terrific and fresh shrimp, scallops, lobster and mussels. I really liked it.
A’s roasted breast of free range hen with portebello [sic] truffle sauce was very good. It was, however, not as orgasmic as my steamed Atlantic salmon in green curry paste with thin chewy vegetable slices in saffron and champagne buerre blanc. I don’t even like curry nor is salmon my favorite fish, yet I loved it. I am so glad I followed the waitress’ advice to order it over the steak. It was the best salmon ever and its goodness made up for its small size.
I was a little afraid my dessert sampler would be anticlimactic but it was great too. There was ice cream, a chocolate square, a lemon square, and some apple pie thing that I actually enjoyed despite my usual distate for apple pastries. A’s sorbet trio of champagne, chocolate and blood orange was also lovely.
Our service was a bit slow but very friendly, a kink I’m sure they’ll work out with time. The whole experience was sweet and romantic, somehow. Maybe it was the décor. The food, while not always conversation-stopping, was extremely good and I look forward to visiting again with the Boyfriend. Especially since they still seem to be doing a very reasonable $27.50 prix fixe with five instead of three choices each for app and main.
Rating: 8.5 / 10
Our cost: $52 with soft opening $20.08 prix fixe, BYOB (prix fixe is now $27.50)
Noise level: convivial
Chance of walking in: it’s tiny so you probably need a res.
