12.23.08
Review of Zucco, Tuesday September 2008
188 Orchard & Houston Sts., 212-677-5200
Great for: classic brasserie food, a nice low-key time
I had a date with this guy Bar Owner. It was kinda weird because I’d met him ages ago and he waited three months to ask me out. I wasn’t really sure what the budget was so I thought of Zucco because it’s supposed to be pretty reasonable. He suggested Allen & Delancey, which I regretfully declined as I’d already reviewed it; I rather wish I’d said yes, because its chef Neil Ferguson left a little while later and who knows if it’s still as good. Zucco was very nice though, so it worked out that I thought of my bloggerly duty to you, dear Reader, and not just my tummy.
We both had the classic frisée aux lardons with a poached egg. The sauce was perhaps a bit lemony but overall it was very good. I would have preferred the salad to be a little more chopped, though when I think about it they generally do come with such giant leaves. I enjoyed the lovely, big, chewy cubes of bacon. Also the tons of delicious chives on the egg. Mmmm.
My Angus shell steak in peppercorn sauce with frites and salad was also great. Everything was perfectly done; the meat not chewy, the fries crispy. I felt virtuous eating the salad though probably the scrumptious, creamy peppercorn sauce canceled that out. His bar grille au fenouil – grilled sea bass with fennel served with cauliflower gratin – was quite good, although the orange pepper sauce was a bit bitter. That was probably from the fennel. The fish itself was crispy and decent, while the cauliflower was a good kind of bland. Perhaps seafood is not their forte quite as much as steak.
We shared a lovely $42 bottle of Sancerre in cute tiny doll glasses. I wonder sometimes if I am part Japanese, I have such an inordinate love for miniature anything. The restaurant itself is rather doll-like as well, but manages not to be too cramped. I did think the music was too loud though. It turned out that our hyper, amiable waiter was Zucco himself! He’s funny and very hospitable. I had a great time.
Rating: 7.5 / 10
Our cost: $125 ($42 bottle of Sancerre)
Noise level: cozy bistro
Chance of walking in: not great. It’s cute, but tiny.
